BLOGGER ALERT

Our Complaint Department has received queries, whines and death threats relevant to the inability of some of you'ns to post your thoughtful and heart-felt comments to my blog ramblings... Well, first of all, it's NOT MY FAULT! I blame whoever runs the Internet or to whomever she/he has delegated accountability for coordination and facilitation of international Blog commentaries for this unfortunate and annoying malfunction.

Seriously though, I do regret the inconvenience and (especially) my missing out on your responses. So I will have my technical staff of one (Gwyn, HELP!) check this out and hope that we can resolve it. In the interim...

Have an enjoyable and safe New Year's Eve celebration and a rewarding and blessed 2012!

Wes

Souk's On

I experienced my first taste of traditional Riyadh in an evening trip to the Al-Thumairi souk (market) in the Al-Dira district. This commercial and cultural center has the smells, sounds and tastes of Riyadh as the average Saudi experiences it outside the gleaming and polished artifice of the Mall culture. Traffic in the weekend evening is even more daunting than during rush hour but once our driver dropped us off at the souk I felt like I had been transported into a different, parallel reality. My hosts, an expat couple who had a decade of experience in Riyadh, were on a mission to look at carpets and jewelry. Dr. M knew several of the shop owners by name and it became apparent he was a valued, long-time customer known for his negotiating skills. The souks were arranged in narrow rows of storefronts loosely clustered by product, carpets in one area, gold and silver in another with open stalls of candy, nuts, and cheap toys for the children, even a coin-operated set of rides for the little ones.

Fortunately, I had rationed the spending money I carried with me for the temptation to indulge in more authentic Saudi and Middle Eastern culture was hard to resist. I left with a very interesting jewelry item that was pleasing on two counts: it was authentic (Afghan, not Saudi) and I actually bargained down the asking price. Dr. M was not impressed with my skills in this regard but admitted that as a novice not much more could be expected. To put this in perspective, we spent about an hour in one carpet shop while he closely examined a dozen Persian carpets spread out before us and then negotiated with a combination of amiability and assertiveness that was impressive while the owner Mohammed served us cups of sweet tea and carried on the bargaining from his side, firmly - pointing out the age and fine craftsmanship of the piece, etc. - but with great courtesy. My host and his companion - the carpet was actually for her - left with the carpet, about 1000 SR below the asking price. Though carpets don't excite me, even those that are of high quality, I appreciate the fact that I was witnessing a master class in haggling!

Before leaving the souk, we took a peak into the Masmak fortress, a museum and tribute to the al-Saud family that unfortunately was closed for the day. This somewhat sinister looking structure is located adjacent to a huge open square where mothers were walking with their toddlers, kids kicking soccer balls, young girls (some fully veiled but others not) raptly engaged on their mobile phones, and other signs of normal urban life. Except this is the very plaza in which public executions of a medieval character are conducted several times a year, as recently as last week in which a woman was executed having been found guilty of sorcery. The means of capital punishment? Well, the venue is popularly (and distressingly) known as "chop-chop"square...

So a mix of the comforting and civilized aspects of Saudi culture - sweet tea while bargaining amiably for a purchase - and the dark side of the national psyche. All things considered though, a memorable evening...

Happy New Year to the 'Burgh

Fortunately, New Year's Eve was rarely if ever a major celebratory moment in the Rohrer household. As I aged gracefully, the challenge to stay awake until midnight to listen to a pointless countdown,watch the descent of a really large chandelier with the music of groups that I had never heard of in the background- Wilco, for example? - well, not my cup of strong java. So my curmudgeonly approach to the New Year's hoopla serves me well in Riyadh since there is no recognition of the Gregorian calendar new year as a holiday let alone a celebration of it... So bah humbug, indeed!

However, Christmas Eve and Day was another story indeed. Candidly, I had faced Christmas season with foreboding, anticipating a sense of loss, remoteness and self-pity expecting to soldier through it as an ascetic, joyless discipline. Although I did experience some of these emotions in fact, the peak of the Christmas cycle was saved for me by my experiencing a Christmas dinner hosted by an expat couple and their friends, complete with Christmas carols in the background, a traditional turkey dinner with sweet potato/marshmellow caserole, and a libation that reminded me of a very fruity wine. The comraderie was wonderful and I may have a photo to post eventually - yours truly bedecked in a traditional Afghan wedding hat. Enjoy the image!

However, the peak experience for me was a long skype with Janet, Gwyn and Caitlin celebrating (virtually) around the Christmas tree. I cannot convey how wonderful this was... even without a gift to unwrap!

Blessings to each of you for a rewarding and challenging New Year ahead!

Christmas Card from Riyadh

The day before the day before Christmas is warm and sunny here and the propects for a White Christmas in Riyadh are nill. In fact the prediction for December 25 is about 75-deg F the warmest day since October. So in many ways it will be strange to be spending this special holy season in SA. I will be skyping Christmas Day with Janet, Caitlin and Gwyn and celebrating with them around the tree and stockings (yes, we still maintain the tradition) virtually. I expect that the Armed Forces Network will be playing Christmas carols and perhaps even showing a yule log or two. I will be attending a Christmas dinner for the Western expats who haven't left for the holidays which I'm told will include a turkey with the trimmings. I politely refused an invitation to attend a filmed version of the Nutcracker on Christmas Eve, primarily because you've seen it once... etc.  Realizing that this sounds very Scrooge-like, my apologies but this old cultural chestnut never resonated with me. Now if it were Handel's Messiah, well that's another matter.

I have been preoccupied in a good way by priorities at work, including preparing an article for potential publication and leading a strategic planning effort - how's that for excitement! - and consequently have been neglecting my blog responsibilities. I intend to get back in the groove soon but want to wish all my blog buddies a restoring, most rewarding and blessed Christmas and Chanukah season.

God be with each of you!

Wes

Unbirthday in Riyadh

I'm told that birthdays in Saudi culture are not celebrated, if even recognized at all. If true, this custom is more curious to me than most but in any case when in Rome (or Riyadh)... So I low-keyed my own with a stealth "celebration" in the guise of a dinner out with my new friend Ali. At his suggestion we went to a popular Arabic restaurant that offered an eclectic menu of traditional Arabic foods complemented by dishes you could order at Jimmy Tsang's (were it still open for business). We sat in high backed white cushioned chairs rather than on the floor in traditional mode - which Ali  (a cool young Jordanian engineer) had concluded was too much of a cultural transition for me. He was also very concerned (unnecessarily as it turns out) about my reaction to the food.We ordered a salad plate (humus, eggplant, stuffed grape leaves and greens), Arabic grill (beef, veal and chicken shish-kabob) and fried rice and fresh pita bread - in copious amounts, all of which we shared. Best meal out in several years - including a pre-departure visit to Joe's Crab Shack (South Side) which was memorable!

Ali has also taken on the responsibility of educating me about Saudi cutural do's and taboos. I came close to violating one by offering to clink glasses of fruit drink on his side, cappucino, on mine but was informed that doing so publicly is haram. Any guesses why?

On another cultural front: Christmas lights and decorations are evident in the compound! In fact the manager of the mini-mart, a non-Muslim Indian, features a fully decorated but artificial tree at the entrance and the maintenance shed (Filipino staff) displays a string of green (but no red) lights and Santa in his sleigh... What a wonderful world!

Any idea - choose one!

The 20th century abstract painter, Willem de Kooning, is quoted in reflecting on his art that "any idea is as good as another". Though I certainly have no credentials in art history or esthetics, my guess is that he meant that any concept, idea or mental picture is as likely to generate works of artistic merit, beauty, truth, self-awareness, social criticism, etc as any other. In any case, a similar assumption underlies my approach to blogging, at least in my early fumbling attempts. Rather than invest much energy in finding the right topic (and hitting the correct note), I have let the blog take the lead pursuing its own logic while I run to keep up several steps behind. If this sounds a bit whacko, this likely applies to many of us who decide to communicate primarily through the soundless bit-stream and/or who remove themselves to places where "black and gold" are just colors, not the banner leading into battle and on which we center our lives...

This leads me to cabbages (obviously)... I have attached a bit of poetic reflection ("a poem" suggests a polished and completed work, that doesn't apply here) that reflects my approach to poetry and the idea of one image being :just as good as"... To my wife's regret and my shame, I have yet to fulfill my promise to her to publish (before I perish, presumably) some of my pieces and this one of the few I've ever shared publicly, the first of my Saudi opus. So I consider this a pre-pub pilot, a "toe in the water" for future efforts.

Please accept the following for whatever it's worth as my holiday season gift to you, my dear friends.

Cabbages and kingdoms

Row of cabbages or second cousins

serving as shoe-top hedge rows

sidewalk trim modestly foreign to

color display drawing attention

as unseemly and unArabic

rather as sentinel guard of stability…

Certainly not pinkish impatience

seeking out the Saudi sun but

patiently enduring it like

parched palms bordering & scanning

murderous highways:

Unexpected flora

reminders unsolicited of

gap and chasm unbridged between

being now Riyadh-embedded

as a not-young man with

familiar but receding past

demarcating

the kingdom of discontinuity,

of dampened not extinguished fires,

hope remnant in the backdrop

of disquieting dreams

Cabbage rows pointing toward an

eternal mystery, the query:

Why this world? Why any world at all?

The cabbages are silent and unmoved…

Wes Rohrer

December 1, 2011

Riyadh

 

"It's raining on my head... la te da, etc."

Well, not literally at the moment but it has been raining steadily since 4:00 am. With the high forecast to be in the mid-50s this is very un-Saudi and a bummer since I was totally unprepared for rain and chilly weather. So a mall excursion is my plan for the coming weekend. If I haven't already mentioned it, I have found the disjoint between the Saudi weekend (Thursday-Friday) and the Western way to be especially disorienting, almost more so than the 8-hour time difference...

The major news item the last week or two has been the Syrian situation and the Arab Council's sanctions   against the Assad Regime. At least based on what I read in the Arab News, a Saudi owned daily paper, there is wide-spread antipathy to the brutality shown by Assad and the military against the protestors and innocents caught in the middle. Until I began to read more about MIddle East politics, I had not realized the special influence Syria has had in the pan-Arab movement historically in addition to its geopolitical importance as a linchpin (formerly) of Regional stability and its strategic location. All but two Arab Council nations - Iraq and Lebanon (essentially a puppet state of Syria) - signed off on the agreement. So this assertive action by the Council (of symbolic importance at least) is ground-breaking. As I understand it (small in area but wealthy) Qatar (ruled by the Al-Thani family) took the lead in this process, increasing its clout in the Region... For a political junkie like your correspondent, this is prime steak and has been fascinating to watch as the Arab Spring cycles into winter.

Incidentally, I am beginning to be concerned about the attribution of causal links to my presence in the Kingdom with other significant developments. During my 10 days in Riyadh in mid-January 2011, the Tunisian revolt sparked the Arab Spring while this November in Riyadh has experienced historically trend-breaking weather. I would prefer to blame both on global warming!
 

Thanksgiving in Riyadh

Dear friends,

As you might imagine, Thanksgiving is not recognized nor celebrated in Riyadh even within the expat community. Though to be expected. the dearth of Thanksgiving announcements (buy your 20-pound turkey while they're still available at Giant), no Black Friday sales, etc. has been one of the reminders that I'm not in Kansas (well, somewhat east of there...) any more, Toto. Though it was rumored that a faux Thanksgiving-day dinner was being offered at the dahntahn Marriot, the idea of passing turkey legs, stuffing and cranberry relish around a table of expat strangers didn't exactly warm my heart - though if someone knows how to FAX me a slice of pumpkin pie that would be much appreciated! It will of course be the holidays that will be most difficult in terms of separation from my dear family and friends but that's the cost of doing business in remote corners of the world.

Channeling my favorite weather guy and friend Jon Burnett, the weather here today on Thanksgiving is lovely, sunny and COOL and this follows two days of actually chilly weather (or seems so now that I became acclimated to the Saudi dry heat of October). One day was completely overcast, presented a few drops of rain, was windy and (to me) uncomfortably cool, probably in the high 50s/low 60s. Interestingly enough, all my Saudi colleagues were raving about the great weather and the outdoor patio garden where I usually take my lunch was crowded to over-flowing but I retreated indoors. I wonder if they would be as enthusiastic about a mid-January taste of Buffalo or Cleveland?  My expat mentors tell me that caps, gloves and overcoats are required for at least several weeks in January/February. A though I still find this difficult to believe, I expect to be heading to the blue-light special at the Ramez for my mittens and scarf soon enough.

My primary purpose in posting today, however, was to wish all of you a rewarding, relaxing and renewing Thanksgiving holiday. Though it risks falling into cliche territory ,I must admit that my daily experience in the Kingdom - in spite of the generosity and warmth of my Saudi colleagues, comfortable accommodations and benefits that will accrue longer term - reminds me of how thankful we should be every day for the blessings, freedom and opportunity we enjoy. 

Stumpathon III

When shopping at the compound mini-mart, the clerk rings up 27.55 SR (= Saudi Riyal). If I give him (George) three 10 SR notes, how much change does he hand me?

FYI the current exchange rate is $1 US = 3.755 SR but this is not relevant to the answer - just thought you should know.

Lost thread - Stumpathon II Results

Caitlin had the only response and the correct one... Ohioans made me happy since they soundly defeated a referendum (#2) pushed by the Governor that would have emasculated collective bargaining in the State. Although I have had my issues with specific union positions and tactics, nonetheless collective bargaining has been a foundation principle of labor relations embedded in statutory law since 1935. Given the increasing gap between the ultra-wealthy and the rest of us and the declining fortunes of the middle class, this is hardly the time to curb collective bargaining... In response to this crushing defeat, the Governor (whose name escapes me) admitted that he would need to revaluate his position since the people spoke. Perhaps he wants to avoid facing another form of people's choice, a recall election...

Security to the nth degree

I had occasion to meet with some new friends who happen to be all expat Anglicans to share a meal together at one of the larger expat compounds. I want to discuss the security issue since my experience last evening is arguably a microcosm of the Saudi expat experience in this regard. After securing a reliable NGHA driver (in effect my employer's taxi service), we left the hospital grounds for a 30-minute drive to the far outskirts of Riyadh. Given that we were just past rush hour and beyond central city Riyadh, the traffic was less than hair-raising. In fact it was a peaceful  drive and in the dark could enjoy the horizon of lights off the highway, including a mile or two of what in the US might have appeared to be large and numerous Christmas Tree lots outlined in lights. This was the Camel Souk or market for this popular commodity - and fortunately was able to make out several of the animals on display... At various points the darkness along the highway was interrupted by the garish lights of a block or two of contiguous shops (imagine the Monroeville business district strip in miniature) proclaiming their wares in Arabic. I could identify coffee shops, a pharmacy, and a dry cleaner but the rest were a blur of Arabic script and harsh lighting.

Once we reached the compound, I realized the immmensity of it, easily 3 x the size of my home compound which has about 250 units. The security procedures were correspondingly impressive and daunting. As in my compound, all cars are stopped, the driver and passengers show their IDs and the hood and trunk are opened for a cursory check for explosive devices. In Yamama III this is done with regularity but with perhaps less than high enthusiasm, performed as a necessary routine. Well, the whole process was ratcheted up several notches at the mega-compound, I'll call Happy Acres. Once the auto inspection was completed both the driver, an amicable Pakistani who was one of the more cautious drivers to whom I entrusted my fate, and I were ushered into a Security Guard office where we emptied our pockets and  each went through an airport security inspection device. My driver was also manually frisked but I was spared that indignity, presumably since I was so obviously Western and perhaps since I had worn my suit and best tie for the occasion... Having passed this scrutiny, we the drove the gauntlet of jersey barriers and blockades into the compound interior. To complete the image, the outer compound walls are topped with rolls of barbed wire that would have deterred Steve McQueen, if not Rambo or the former governor of California...

Once inside I went into the Guest Office, where I had my photo taken - glad that I wore that tie! - surrendered my Iqema card (the universally required residence ID for all Saudis and expats), and was given a compound pass. Then I realized that I had no clue as to the location of the meeting other than the generic "Admin Building". To my relief and surprise a shuttle bus was waiting for some other guests who were attending a live theatre performance in the Auditorium... Well the friendly confines of Yamama III were beginning to pale in comparison in terms of cultural opportunities and infrastructure thoughI actually prefer the smaller scale, intimacy and more relaxed climate at YIII.

Our hosts, a British couple who were expat lifers informed us that the population at Happy Acres included officers of the British military (RAF and Royal Navy, though the nearest shoreline is about a two-hour drive). This accounts for the higher level of security as well as certain amenities including a non-alcoholic bar (BYOB, apparently) and the occasional entertainment in the auditorium ... whereas I'm grateful to be able to get clear reception (black & white not color) on my villa TV of MLB, NFL and NHL games via the US Army station broadcasting to Europe, Africa and the Gulf Region...

The meeting included a typically diverse group of expats with folks from Germany, New Zealand, the UK and the US. Our presider was an ARAMCO employee who with his wife is also from the States. The fact that she was wearing a deep yellow jacket with a scarf with black accents led to the inevitable Stiller references though they were not genetically 'Burghers.

So in summary, my take home messages from this experience are (a) that it is crucial to have a dependable driver who speaks your language, (b) regardless of nationality the bonding among expats is usually quick and genuine even if not deep and (c) never leave home without your Iqema ID!

I never found out the title of the performance (though it certainly was not King Lear nor Rent!) but understand that the production was created and enacted by a troupe within the compound... so the arts are alive and well even in the remotest of outposts - the 4th take home message.

In response to thousands of requests - My job description

Well, one actually... My wife Janet asked me to explain my job here. Although this seems like a perfectly reasonable and easily answered question, this turns out to be not so clear since I have no explicit job description and this will likely evolve over the next year. My formal title is Associate Dean for Administration and Policy with a corresponding faculty appointment in the Department of Health Informatics. My primary role (as it appears... Inshallah) is to provide leadership in moving the College of Public Health & HI forward to prepare eventually for accreditation by the US-based accrediting body for schools of public health. This will be a challenging and long-term enterprise, most likely in the five-ten year range, extending well beyond my tenure here. More immediately, I will be working closely with the Dean, Dr. Majid, who is also CIO of the Medical Center, to initiate a long term strategic plan to culminate in CEPH accreditation and will be responsible for developing and articulating College-level academic policies in support of the longer term goals. All this is to serve the vision of the College which essentially is to become the premier center for public health education and research in the Middle East with international recognition for excellence. This is an exciting but daunting aspiration for an institution that's still in its infancy.

So one unexpected sidebar benefit of this blogging process is that I just developed a job description... That may be the most productive outcome of the day!

The mighty have fallen fast

Having just read the Post-Gazette headlines, I am almost speechless - though as most of you know that would be a most unlikely scenario!

It was expected that Paterno was on his way out but I thought Spanier might survive having offered up Joe, his AD, VP for Business Affairs, etc. Clearly this is a tragic, outrageous case of human sin aggravated in its consequences by institutional gross negligence... What were they thinking!

Climbing up a steep learning curve

The residential compound nearest the medical complex headquarters offers recreational services for all the NGHA compounds including a monthly schedule of short trips, including several day-long desert trips, first come/first served. Having intended to visit the US Embassy to check in and register my presence (though this doesn't appear to be required), I signed up for the Diplomatic Quarters trip scheduled yesterday morning from 8:30 - 12:00 noon. Incidentally, with some exceptions I have found that punctuality and observing schedules at least within the NGHA system is at least an aspiration if not always achieved.

In any case I took two shuttles, arrived at the departure point early and had time for a coffee before catching the bus. When I arrived at the appointed stop, my minority status became quite clear as I was the only male along with 20+ Filipino ladies, almost certainly all nurses. Fine with me having verified with the driver that the US embassy was on the itineray, the arrangement being that you are dropped off at the gate and call when you wished to be picked up. Mobile phones here are a survival tool not primarily a convenience and fashion accessory...

The Embassy Quarters is located just outside downtown Riyadh, adjacent to the King Saud International Conference Center and a Ritz Carlton that from the outside looks like the Palace of Versailles. As expected Embassy Row is gated and guarded conspicuously but no more so than our compound actually. So the driver winds his way through miles of intersecting service roads and I noted in passing the New Zealand, Nigerian, Brazilian, Pakistani, Egyptian and Yemeni embassies, all of which had only inconspicuous gate plates identifying the Embassy and a generic Arabic architecture.

As expected the first stop was the Filipino Embassy at which the majority of Filipino ladies departed the bus leaving me and 5 other ladies (to my surprise). Three of the latter got off at the Korean Embassy (!) Finally we reached what we were told was the US Embassy but no name plate and no building immediately in sight, just an aging guard (who couldn't have defended the premises against two preteens with paint guns). So my two Filipino fellow travellers asked the guard how to get to the Embassy. He patiently explained that it was behind the trees at the end of a service drive and we could walk there unescorted BUT it was closed for the holidays (!) After venting our collective frustrations I introduced myself to Ivy and Venice and inquired about their reasons for visting the US Embassy. Both have family in the States and were vistiting the Embassy to begin the arduous process of obtaining a US visa for travel in 2013 (!). Ivy's destination was Georgetown/northern VA and Venice was headed for Hawaii to visit her children (my guess would have been that she was in her mid-20s at most)... In the interim and having some sympathy for our plight, the guard suggested we go to the main gate to check the days/hours of the facility... which it turns out are very restricted, four days a week and 1:30 - 3:30 pm ONLY whereas the Diplomatic Quarters shuttle trips are all scheduled in the morning. Admittedy there are few US expats in the Kingdom overall but still ...!

Well, a young African-American guy at the Embassy entrance gave my companions some information about the visa process and unsolicited, pointedly recommended to them several times that their friend (me) accompany them on their next visit since that would "make it easier for them"... They tried to explain that we weren't family but then decided not to argue the point. In fact since I intended to return anyway - this time by an NGHA taxi - I offered to accompany them. The ladies explained to me that it is very difficult for Filipino women to obtain a guest visa to the US since there is an institutional suspicion that once in the US they will never leave and compete for jobs as illegals. However, the welcome mat is out for Filipino nurses applying for a work visa due to the chronic nursing shortage... So the three of us will attempt to access the castle again in several weeks.

What a learning experience this has been for one wide-eyed expat!

Stumpathon Round II

As context to this question and to insure an even playing field, you all should know that two of our three lovely and talented daughters are alums from two of the finest small universities in Ohio. So as proud parents and boosters, Janet and I display our John Carroll and Ashland U car window decals ... well, proudly.

Today's question is: Why am I especially proud of Ohioans today?

Footnote: This has absolutely nothing to do with Saudi culture, politics, weather or traffic!

And the winners are ...

Catherine edged out Janet R. for 1st place and Janet A. followed soon after with a quite respectable showing (and arguably) had the most creative (i.e., whacko) response. So I was prepared to split the koucherie three ways but alas I reached the cafeteria too late and was faced with the remnants of a sorry looking chicken curry and a somewhat dubious humus-like side dish. So maybe I'll rethink the whole awards thing... Isn't being right just good enough?

Ah, yes, the answer: "Officials were geared up for the critical last day of stoning today at the Jamarat. Pilgrims performed the stoning of Satan ritual chanting "Labbaik" for the second day on Monday. Since morning, pilgrims started descending on the four-storied Jamarat complex from all sides and moved toward the three pillars symbolizing Satan..." Apparently, organizers of the Haj had ordered additional walkways and platforms constructed to alleviate dangerous over-crowding experienced in the past.

This was so much fun for me (hey, it's been a slow week!) that I'm preparing Round II of the Stumpathon... so stay tuned!

Stump the Chump

This may be the first but also could be the last of a "stump the chump" blog feature (plagiarizing from the Car Guys of NPR fame). So let's give it a go...

Explain if you dare, the following headline from today's English language Arab News:

"Stoning made easy, say Hajis".

The first correct (or wildly funny response) will get a fresh plate of koucherie from the KAMC hospital cafeteria. It's quite tasty actually but the average delivery time for packages between the Kingdom and the 'Burgh is four-five weeks so.. maybe you ought to store some left-overs as Plan B.

Shock and awe-ful!

My source for US sports is primarily the US Army network which carries the NFL, NHL and MLB games live or delayed. This evening it's been nonstop coverage about the child abuse allegations against former Coach Sandusky, charges that appear to be well-documented, the cover-up reaching the upper levels of the University and the fate of JoPa. I admit to having been a life-long "anti-fan" of the Nittany Lions, primarily due to my long-suffering and largely futile loyalty to Pitt football though their greatest fan was almost without challenge my mother Margaret who sobbed blue and gold...

In any case it is so strange to see this sad and sordid tale played out in excruciating detail half the globe away... In spite of my deep-seated loyalties for the Panthers, one cannot fail to acknowledge that this will be an awful ending to one of the greatest coaching careers in football. Yes, we don't want judgment to outpace proven facts; yet it looks bad for all directly involved... so I offer my sympathies to PennState nation and especially our good friends and next door neighbors who are world class PSU fans and boosters.

Some further evidence that the world is a bit off-kilter: it rained last evening, a light drizzle admittedly but decidedly wet and tomorrow's projected high is a chilly 73 F. So why didn't I pack my LL Bean parka?

Venture into the Great Unknown

Well after some weighing of pros and cons, I went with my instinct and walked out of the compound for the first time. I was told by an expat friend that the Ramez Center was a 20 minute walk and was considered a safe passage (re traffic not bad guys!). Ramez has been described as having KMart ambiance as an all-purpose discounter. The walk was in some ways liberating since I have become so dependent on scheduled bus loops. Although I really enjoy the compound and its amenities, at times I feel as if I'm living in a parallel universe sealed off from the real world like being a figure in an Arabian snow globe - without, of course, the snow!

In any case the walk was uneventful except for the several times I had to cross a major highway. This is a life-threatening experience throughout Riyadh and I'm not exagerating much. The principle that the pedestrian has the right of way is either unknown or disdainfully dismissed in Riyadh. In either case I stayed to the far shoulder of the road after leaving the compound on the service road paralleling the main drag. I walked at a brisk pace on sand/dust while taking advantage of the mid-morning breeze before the heat descended walking beside several blocks of land awaiting the inevtiable construction of some revenue-generating enterprise. All too soon I had to make the first crossing of the highway (imagine the Parkway East at rush hour between the Bates Street entrance and the Squirrel Hill tunnel). Actually, due to the relatively light mid-morning traffic on the Saudi weekend, it was tricky but not spine-tingling. So I made it in one piece with a bit of a swagger in my step...

Comparisons of Ramez to KMart are libelous to the latter unless we are talking about KMart in the early 80s. Ramez did seem to have a wide array of primarily Chinese made products ranging from carpets to soap detergent, backpacks to stationary, manicure sets to men's winter jackets (!) - and mercifully no small of rancid popcorn... I was looking for beard grooming products (isn't this just too compelling!) and struck out there. I also searched for one of the string bags that you can use as a carry-all for lunches, etc. but the only ones available were in pink featuring Princess Jasmine and her banby camel or neon green with the Riyadhi Kid on his skateboard - so I passed on those. Left with some pens, a notebook, a pair of scissors (all imports from Beijing),etc. and a great deal on Tide.

The bad new: this was the high point of my day off - the good news: I won't ever again subject you to my shopping list... Just another exciting slice of expat life in the Magic Kingdom!

For another bit of local flavor, what follows are the story line headers from yesterday's Arab News:

"No compromise with Iran, says (newly appointed) Crown Prince Naif"


(Saudi) Education model needs review


Four caught running bogus Haj (travel) firms


Over 177,000 pilgrims arrive from non-Arab Africa


Syria, Arab league argee on road map to end unrest


WVU files lawsuit against Big East 

[Yes that's West-by-God Virginia being referenced (go figure!) along with the NHL hockey scores and CC Sabathia's contract which mercifully crowded out the cricket play-by-plays. Our Stiller's unexpected domination of the Pats also got some attention earlier in the week.]

Observations on the eve of the Eid Al-Adha Holiday

I want to avoid this becoming weather central but the eartly winter assault on the US east coast even made the Arab News. I understand that the 'Burgh was spared the worst but Janet reports that the norm has been late November-like weather in October. It's quite a different story here of course but on my walk home from my gym work-out last night, there was a strong breeze that actually felt chilly - and that was a first.

I am preparing for what for me will likely be a rather long week during the Eid holiday which extends officially from Saturday, 11/5 to Friday,11/11 though some of my colleagues began early. The high point is the Eid-Al-Adha, the feast of sacrifice. This holiday provides the opportunity for the faithful to make the Hajj, the trip to Makkah (Mecca), which (in theory) is an obligation for the faithful Muslim, at least once in his/her lifetime though exceptions are made for practical reasons, e.g., prohibitive cost, family obligations. Apparently, between 1.5 to 2 million Muslims from across the globe make the journey annually. According to one of my colleagues who made the Haj with his wife and mother several years ago, you sign up with  group travel agency who makes all the arrangements including food and travel. The greatrest challenge other than the crowds of people in procession (a snapshot of Disney World queues and long waits for the attractions comes to mind) are the distances to be covered in performing the rituals associated with the Haj observance. The proscribed rituals include walking seven times around the Ka-ba, the huge black stone within the Grand Mosque, seven runs (or walks) between twin hills, symbolizing Hagar's search for water in the wilderness, traveling to Mt. Arafat (which I understand does not entail any climbing) and stoning the three pillars at Mina which represents the Devil and distribution of sacrificed animals to the poor at the end of the pilgrimage (source: No God But God, Reza Aslan, 2005 - a really interesting cultural history of Islam). By all accounts the Haj is a profoundly moving experience for those with the means to participate. Some are housed in tents and there is literally a moveable feast...

Well, back in Riyadh for the expat infidals, limited options... My College remains accessible and the Hospital never closes along with its cafeteria and excellent coffee shops featuring great cheese croisants and chocolate covered donuts (ah, my heart sings!). Although I had planned to take advantage of  some scheduled shopping trips from thre compound to various malls and markets, those have been cancelled for the next four-five days. So office, coffee shop, gym and villa for me, perhaps not so exciting but I'll endure...

Al-Sholah Mall (finally!)

I'm sitting at my dining room table/work station at 4:30 am (Riyadh time) unable to sleep while catching the mid innings of Game 7. This is an unexpected treat though I wish that the insomnia had visited me last night so that I could have witnessed the exciting Cardinals victory over the Texans. Since I don't have a "dog in this hunt", I default to support for the NL - unless of course the hated Atlanta Braves are in the game (an old story grounded in Pirates history...)

In order to close the loop on my initial blog, I provide an excerpt from my notes on site at the mall last week...

Sitting rather comfortably in the central foyer of the Al Sholah Mall - a bizarre configuration of tired but still attention-getting pastels: lavender benches, muted pastel blue and pink surrounds, Easter egg yellow hand rails arching up the spiralling walkway to the second level, all in need of repainting, a decade late!  Speckled black and white marble floors with salmon pink diamonds leading to the centerpiece - a non-functioning fountain and moat encircled by a marbled ring of beige and red-ochre triangles. All this eye-catching but frayed, tired, careless of maintenance... but business must be healthy here given the number of retailers, no vacant shops.

I bought my coffee - an excellent bold Costa Rican and long chocolate covered glazed donuts (so far my favorite Riyadhi food!) - at the aptly named Coffee Stop. Across the small courtyard a Baskins-Robbins and Pizza Inn complete the fast food court. I'm alone in the court until two young Saudi males sit down briefly perhaps hoping to catch the eye of veiled Saudi ladies were there any in sight... The only other bench-sitter is an elderly male dressed in a white caftan with a skull cap (not the typical Saudi uniform) and cane stretching his legs on a bench apparently waiting patiently for someone - who a half-hour later appears, his elderly wife burdened with shopping bags. I wonder if he is concerned about the number of Saudi riyals that left his account but he shows no emotion...

After leisurely enjoying my breakfast I wandered through the mall, small by US standards, likely the equivalent of one wing of Ross Park or Pittsburgh Mills. All the stores are clustered by product: men's clothing, women's clothing, perfume, gold and silver jewelry and mobile phone shops are predominant, interrupted by one sad little "book store" (actually stationery and school supplies) and an eclectic home furnishings store. It begs the question of how one decides which of the ten men's stores to choose given that they seem to have the same inventory. Perhaps it's stubborn customer loyalty... In any case I saw little actual commerce in action.

It should be noted that this space is in marked contrast to the gleaming, modern and conspicuously affluent Kingdom Mall which I visted in my earlier trip in January and plan to revisit with a full wallet after payday!

I feel a bir sheepish spending so much attention on Mall culture but it appears to be central to both Saudi and expat life. Since there is literally no other "night life" in Riyadh, by default the mall is the place...
 

The Evening Prayer Train

One of my favorite times in Riyadh is the 5-minute walk back from my workout in the fitness center to my villa at about 7:00 pm. It has been dark for the past hour, there's a refreshing breeze, and I'm at peace. Except for an occasional resident walking from or to the bus stop, a child on a scooter or a compound employee on a bike, the streets are deserted. I feel completely safe here, ironically - as unconcerned as I would be on the tree-lined streets of my neighborhood Aspinwall.

I walk to the chants of evening prayers in overlapping waves of praise to Allah - the only word I can clearly distinguish. From the Yamama compound I can distinguish trains of chanting from at least four different mosques within my hearing, realizing that the prayers are being repeated all across the Kingdom and beyond. The language and cadence are too alien for me to regard the prayer chants as beautiful or even musical; yet the overall effect is one of mystery and majesty. I expect that as I learn more Arabic the prayers will have even greater impact. But now they are somehow comforting even as the prayer chanting reminds me that I'm the outsider listening in to the cries from the heart of others, a whole people at worship.

The opening of the Koran (Qur'an), the fatiha, is translated: "In the Name of God, the Merciful, the Compassionate. Praise belongs to God, the Lord of all being, the All-merciful, the All-compassionate, the Master of the Day of Judgment. Thee only we serve; to thee alone we pray for succor..." Of course I don't know if this is included in the spoken prayers but I must assume this theology infuses them. As a Christian I find much in common with this characterization of God (the Father) and my own conception of the Almighty. Perhaps even the non-believer would recognize the elegance of the language... But Islam is certainly much more complex than my meagre initial observations can begin to touch. So enough said... I'm at peace after dark in the ever-mysterious Riyadh!

Mall Talk Revisited

I realized after thefact that I never shared my observations about this mall nor the Saudi mall culture. Malls (at least in Riyadh) are one of the triangulation points of Saudi culture along with the mosque and the family residence. Thus far I have been to three malls varying widely in terms of ambiance and products and services available. In an earlier visit to Riyadh (my recruitment trip) I spent most of my evenings people-watching and drinking coffee (Starbucks if you please!) in the Kingdom Tower (featured in the photo used for my blog portal). Kingdom Tower is as upscale a mall as I've ever experienced but then again I've never been to Dallas or Rodeo Drive... Most of the clothing, electronic, perfume and jewelry stores are European and the clerks are all male.  I understand that in response to growing displeasure among women about having to purchase lingerie and sleepware from male clerks, an edict was issued that all retailers except the very smallest who sell these items must employ a female associate... Small steps slowly but progress under King Abdullah.

The main attraction for me as a consumer - since I didn't have nearly enough Saudi riyals for even the low end jewelry - was the discovery of the food court... a junk food oasis shimmering in the desert heat (well the mall was fully air-conditioned but grant me some poetic license here) that offered along with the ubiquitous Starbucks, Subway, KFC and (my heart leaped at the sight), Mickey D's. The court also includes a British bakery/coffee stop that sells donuts including the white powder variety that I crave! So the Kingdom isn't that different after all when it comes to satisfying the basic needs of life!

Which, however, introduces an important cultural note: the Starbucks has a small dining area separated into a family section and bachelors only (single or groups of men). At McDonald's (no seating) there are two separate lines (side by side) with the same gender divide. Both lines are served simultaneously so there appears to be no redictable advantage being in either line but it's odd to Western eyes... The woman all wore the black abayas down to the the shoe line covering the ankles. While the full veil is predominant, most Western and Asian women wore head scarves, some with floral prints. I have yet to see the presence of the Saudi cultural police, enforcing the dress code, but I understand it does occur... Oh yes, Kingdom Tower also has a females only floor where I presume the lingerie is sold - and perhaps a lounge wher the ladies can drink tea and escape the tiresome males in their lives - but that's just speculation...

Time flies when in the blogosphere and I must get ready for the shuttle bus... to be continued

Tea Shack (!)

Across from my shuttle bus stop is what I've referred to as a tea shack, a square tent open on one side facing the Yamama III compound road and entrance. Since it's about a city block from the bus stop - and considering my best eye is about 20/40 corrected - the only thing I can see inside the tent from that vantage point are one or two men usually sitting on either side of a table. Not until recently, did I see one of the men leave the shack wearing camoflauge desert colors of the Saudi National Guard. Well, my eyes were opened wide later that day when I caught a ride home from campus with a physician expat who had use of the company car. When entering the compound all vehicles are stopped, ID checked and the trunk and hood are opened to do a routine check for explosive devices. This follows a zigzag course of entry established by jersey barriers placed at diagonals. In discussing the onerous nature of this security, my new friend pointed toward the "tea shack", saying "Well, that's Plan B if a bad guy gets past gate security." Although the guys in the tea shack may well be enjoying tea or more likely Arabic coffee to while away the time on duty in the heat of the day, their main responsibility is to operate if necessary and maintain the military submachine gun(s) mounted in the tent!

So I felt both embarrassment at my missing the point and an added increment of relief on the security front mixed with another reminder that "Toto, we really aren't in Kansas, not to mention, the 'Burgh, any more, not even close!

Well, another day in the desert - another lesson learned...

Wes

A morning at the Al-Sholah Mall

Loved ones, friends and the merely curious -

I am indeed alive and well and settled in here in Riyadh, specifically Unit #154, the Yamamsa III expat compound, a quite comfortable but cookie cutter set of more or less identical villas with excellent amenities, including the equivalent of a GetGo convenience store with a wider selection of groceries and an excellent fitness center and swimming pools. The truth is that I have been feeling more relaxed, healthy and energized than for a very long time. Yes, I'm still adjusting to the heat and I'm not close to being oriented to the relative location of my key coordinates: my villa, the King Saud bin Abdulaziz campus, the shopping malls, the US embassy. As for the weather report: hot 90+ F, sunny and cloudless with 0% humidity - and that's for the entire month of October! - apologies to those who have already heard this one! To my surprise I felt an actually (well almost) cool (sort of) breeze this morning. This I'm told is the precursor to the ravages of winter (January and February) where on the most severe days the temp may drop to 60 F and rain might fall imperceptibly (.05 inches for the entire winter).

So what are my reactions to this new environment - natural, built and socio-cultural? The words that continue to emerge include: fascinating, perplexing, mysterious, dusty (as construction is ever-present at least in the venues I frequent as well as dahntahn Riyadh) and frustrating. Imagine for a moment the organization you most enjoy vilifying for its red tape, layered processes, inefficiencies, glacial rate of change, etc. - well I would give the 1st place trophy to the Saudi bureaucracy hands down, no close competition. I'm sure this topic will be revisited as this is only my 3rd week in the Kingdom.

On the plus side I have found my Saudi and expat colleagues to be extraordinarily courteous, warm and welcoming. This suggests another characteristic that took me by surprise: how cosmopolitan Riyadh appears, perhaps especially at the King Abdulaziz Medical Center and the University, both linked under the NGHA umbrella and within walking distance on the same campus. The nurses at the hospital are virtually all expats and just at the bus stop I've met and shared stories with nurses (and a few docs) from Ireland, Scotland, Slovakia, Canada and South Africa. Many if not the majority of the nursing staff and other nonmedical service staff hail from the Philipines, Malaysia and sub-Saharan Africa...

And yes, I have befriended an expat research administrator I met at the shuttle bus stop who is an actual yinzer and - this does strain credulity - is a distant cousin of Andy Warhol... Go figure the odds!

Enough for now but I'll be offering my own slices of Saudi life, impressions of the moment, and occasional poetic reflections while keeping whining and whimpering to a minimum. Please be advised of this disclaimer: I am unlikely to address any hot-button political or cultural issues since I'm not here as a journalist or scholar of Saudi society and serve at the pleasure of my employer, Saudi National Guard Health Affairs.  Enough said for now!

I would truly appreciate keeping up a conversation with you either in response to my ramblings or to update me on important developments in your life or in the 'Burgh. Brief is as good as lengthy (sometimes better), and spontaneous outpourings from the heart will always be welcome as will updates on Pitt football and basketball - as this gets limited coverage, to say the least. I did learn that the New Zealand All Blacks (their uniforms, not ethnicity) will be contesting the French team (really!) for the Rugby World Cup. Apparently, the French lads pulled off a controversial upset over Wales which being of Welsh heritage annoys me greatly! Well that's more than you wanted to know but that's sports (along with soccer and cricket) in the Middle East...

Wes