Mall Talk Revisited

I realized after thefact that I never shared my observations about this mall nor the Saudi mall culture. Malls (at least in Riyadh) are one of the triangulation points of Saudi culture along with the mosque and the family residence. Thus far I have been to three malls varying widely in terms of ambiance and products and services available. In an earlier visit to Riyadh (my recruitment trip) I spent most of my evenings people-watching and drinking coffee (Starbucks if you please!) in the Kingdom Tower (featured in the photo used for my blog portal). Kingdom Tower is as upscale a mall as I've ever experienced but then again I've never been to Dallas or Rodeo Drive... Most of the clothing, electronic, perfume and jewelry stores are European and the clerks are all male.  I understand that in response to growing displeasure among women about having to purchase lingerie and sleepware from male clerks, an edict was issued that all retailers except the very smallest who sell these items must employ a female associate... Small steps slowly but progress under King Abdullah.

The main attraction for me as a consumer - since I didn't have nearly enough Saudi riyals for even the low end jewelry - was the discovery of the food court... a junk food oasis shimmering in the desert heat (well the mall was fully air-conditioned but grant me some poetic license here) that offered along with the ubiquitous Starbucks, Subway, KFC and (my heart leaped at the sight), Mickey D's. The court also includes a British bakery/coffee stop that sells donuts including the white powder variety that I crave! So the Kingdom isn't that different after all when it comes to satisfying the basic needs of life!

Which, however, introduces an important cultural note: the Starbucks has a small dining area separated into a family section and bachelors only (single or groups of men). At McDonald's (no seating) there are two separate lines (side by side) with the same gender divide. Both lines are served simultaneously so there appears to be no redictable advantage being in either line but it's odd to Western eyes... The woman all wore the black abayas down to the the shoe line covering the ankles. While the full veil is predominant, most Western and Asian women wore head scarves, some with floral prints. I have yet to see the presence of the Saudi cultural police, enforcing the dress code, but I understand it does occur... Oh yes, Kingdom Tower also has a females only floor where I presume the lingerie is sold - and perhaps a lounge wher the ladies can drink tea and escape the tiresome males in their lives - but that's just speculation...

Time flies when in the blogosphere and I must get ready for the shuttle bus... to be continued