Wednesday, May 9, 2012

The Prince is in the building

This week I have come as close to royalty as I'll ever get, specifically about several feet removed from Prince Mutab, son of King Abdullah and head of the Saudi National Guard. The occasion was the formal inauguration of the King Abdullah Arabic Medical Encyclopedia, an interactive on-line consumer-focused health education tool. As this is the only such resource in the world presented in Arabic, the project under the leadership of our Dean, Dr. Al-Tuwaijri is a very big deal and being housed in our College of Public Health and Health Informatics brings prestige to the College and phot-ops with the Prince.

The preliminaries are carefully choreographed following a  pattern that is a blending of of High Church ritual (censors of incense are carried by secular acolytes) and a political rally, cameras rolling. Huge ceramic vases of potted plants appeared at the main doorway and a red carpet (literally) was laid across the front steps and into the foyer. Red-capped National Guard soldiers formed a phalanx at the entry way and official photographers had cameras at the ready. My colleague, Dr. Mowafa invited me to wait with him and a few others to form an ad hoc receiving line in the foyer but as I expected we were politely asked to move along by the head security guy. But fortune smiled as we crossed paths with Dean Majid who invited us into the conference room in the row just behind the University and military dignitaries. After all the guests were seated tea boys in red and gold damask coats brought in tea, fruit juices, the ubiquitous bottled water and trays of fresh dates. Though I'm not a tea drinker the lemon tea that is often served at special functions is quite distinctive, spicy and sweet.

Within about ten minutes the Prince entered with his entourage wearing a dark thobe and white ghutra. His excellency is likely in his mid-50s, seems vigorous and has a command. presence, befitting his military career and title. Unfortunately for me, he gave his remarks in Arabic but my colleague, Dre. Mowafa, did real time translation. He praised the Dean and staff for this excellent contribution to the health and well-being of the people of Saudi Arabia and how it reflects the contibutions of Arabic scientists and scholars to the world, etc.  His most interesting remark however followed his question to the research team's spokesman about whether the encyclopedia contained "prophetic" (traditional/Qu'ran-based) medicine. The gist of the response was that "yes, since our people are interested in this but we must be careful to balance this interest with the best evidence underlying medical practice and public health..." The Prince nodded in acknowledgement but then expressed his faith in traditional medicine by recounting an elaborate story about the use of henna to relieve a scalp problem which had the not inconsequential benefit of adding a darker tone to his graying hair. He recounted this assertively - I had the impression that he didn't lose many arguments - but also with a humorous touch. His own criticism of the Web presentation is that the National Guard wasn't acknowledged. When the NGHA logo was pointed out to him he responded - and I didn't need a translator here - that he wanted it much bigger.

This was followed by his presentation of plaques of achievement to each of the faculty and staff involved, men and women and photos with the Prince. Following a final round by the tea boys, the Prince announced  that he had an additional tribute for each of the staff, a two-months bonus which was distributed on the spot. With that the Prince and entourage left the room shaking hands as he went. Being in the cheap seats, I wasn't able to press the flesh but felt the glow of the royal presence... This was yet another experience in which I recognized the hybrid of the familiar with the alien aspects of Saudi culture. The most unusual aspect of the ceremony was that the women staff were seated with the men and recognized together. That this is so unusual is the "take home" lesson!

Another glimpse into the soul of Saudi culture...

Saturday, May 5, 2012

A bit of fevered verse: In honor of the Pittsburgh Marathon

Saudi spring

Heat encapsulates
Enervates of course
Shrink wraps as a
Second skin, stir
Frying any stray
Initiative
Incendiary as
Scorching the soul
To brittle crisp
Smothering thought
Beyond "how hot?"
Few steps fatiguing
As a marathon
Melt-down and
could go on-and-on
But stop to ask:

Hot enough for you?

For Caitlin, her SPC team and all the Burghers running the Marathon, run the good race and HYDRATE!

Thursday, May 3, 2012

While some like it hot...

The past week and weeks ahead will test this proposition. The five day forecast runs like this:
102 F, 107F, 103F, 105F, 104 F - and this is just the beginning of the summer. I'm told by expat long-timers that this has been an especially wet and cool "spring" (only 80s and 90s in April) and a delayed summer. I do prefer the heat to cold weather in general and the low humidity does make it more bearable. Yet it still takes some adjustment stepping out from the A/C comfort of the villa or office into the blazing sun, an experience like running into a wall of particulate-infused heat. You do adjust to it by moving more slowly and hydrating regularly is a requirement. What has suprised me is how much of a toll it takes on my energy reserves. I have decided to retire from running at least for the summer both because of the risk of heat stroke and the wear on my joints of the mercilessly hard road surface - no grass beyond a few decorative patches. That the compound has both indoor and outdoor swimming pools and a fitness center is a blessing. At this point I cannot imagine the experience of 120-125 F but I will learn to cope with it soon enough!