Our Complaint Department has received queries, whines and death threats relevant to the inability of some of you'ns to post your thoughtful and heart-felt comments to my blog ramblings... Well, first of all, it's NOT MY FAULT! I blame whoever runs the Internet or to whomever she/he has delegated accountability for coordination and facilitation of international Blog commentaries for this unfortunate and annoying malfunction.
Seriously though, I do regret the inconvenience and (especially) my missing out on your responses. So I will have my technical staff of one (Gwyn, HELP!) check this out and hope that we can resolve it. In the interim...
Have an enjoyable and safe New Year's Eve celebration and a rewarding and blessed 2012!
Wes
Friday, December 30, 2011
Souk's On
I experienced my first taste of traditional Riyadh in an evening trip to the Al-Thumairi souk (market) in the Al-Dira district. This commercial and cultural center has the smells, sounds and tastes of Riyadh as the average Saudi experiences it outside the gleaming and polished artifice of the Mall culture. Traffic in the weekend evening is even more daunting than during rush hour but once our driver dropped us off at the souk I felt like I had been transported into a different, parallel reality. My hosts, an expat couple who had a decade of experience in Riyadh, were on a mission to look at carpets and jewelry. Dr. M knew several of the shop owners by name and it became apparent he was a valued, long-time customer known for his negotiating skills. The souks were arranged in narrow rows of storefronts loosely clustered by product, carpets in one area, gold and silver in another with open stalls of candy, nuts, and cheap toys for the children, even a coin-operated set of rides for the little ones.
Fortunately, I had rationed the spending money I carried with me for the temptation to indulge in more authentic Saudi and Middle Eastern culture was hard to resist. I left with a very interesting jewelry item that was pleasing on two counts: it was authentic (Afghan, not Saudi) and I actually bargained down the asking price. Dr. M was not impressed with my skills in this regard but admitted that as a novice not much more could be expected. To put this in perspective, we spent about an hour in one carpet shop while he closely examined a dozen Persian carpets spread out before us and then negotiated with a combination of amiability and assertiveness that was impressive while the owner Mohammed served us cups of sweet tea and carried on the bargaining from his side, firmly - pointing out the age and fine craftsmanship of the piece, etc. - but with great courtesy. My host and his companion - the carpet was actually for her - left with the carpet, about 1000 SR below the asking price. Though carpets don't excite me, even those that are of high quality, I appreciate the fact that I was witnessing a master class in haggling!
Before leaving the souk, we took a peak into the Masmak fortress, a museum and tribute to the al-Saud family that unfortunately was closed for the day. This somewhat sinister looking structure is located adjacent to a huge open square where mothers were walking with their toddlers, kids kicking soccer balls, young girls (some fully veiled but others not) raptly engaged on their mobile phones, and other signs of normal urban life. Except this is the very plaza in which public executions of a medieval character are conducted several times a year, as recently as last week in which a woman was executed having been found guilty of sorcery. The means of capital punishment? Well, the venue is popularly (and distressingly) known as "chop-chop"square...
So a mix of the comforting and civilized aspects of Saudi culture - sweet tea while bargaining amiably for a purchase - and the dark side of the national psyche. All things considered though, a memorable evening...
Fortunately, I had rationed the spending money I carried with me for the temptation to indulge in more authentic Saudi and Middle Eastern culture was hard to resist. I left with a very interesting jewelry item that was pleasing on two counts: it was authentic (Afghan, not Saudi) and I actually bargained down the asking price. Dr. M was not impressed with my skills in this regard but admitted that as a novice not much more could be expected. To put this in perspective, we spent about an hour in one carpet shop while he closely examined a dozen Persian carpets spread out before us and then negotiated with a combination of amiability and assertiveness that was impressive while the owner Mohammed served us cups of sweet tea and carried on the bargaining from his side, firmly - pointing out the age and fine craftsmanship of the piece, etc. - but with great courtesy. My host and his companion - the carpet was actually for her - left with the carpet, about 1000 SR below the asking price. Though carpets don't excite me, even those that are of high quality, I appreciate the fact that I was witnessing a master class in haggling!
Before leaving the souk, we took a peak into the Masmak fortress, a museum and tribute to the al-Saud family that unfortunately was closed for the day. This somewhat sinister looking structure is located adjacent to a huge open square where mothers were walking with their toddlers, kids kicking soccer balls, young girls (some fully veiled but others not) raptly engaged on their mobile phones, and other signs of normal urban life. Except this is the very plaza in which public executions of a medieval character are conducted several times a year, as recently as last week in which a woman was executed having been found guilty of sorcery. The means of capital punishment? Well, the venue is popularly (and distressingly) known as "chop-chop"square...
So a mix of the comforting and civilized aspects of Saudi culture - sweet tea while bargaining amiably for a purchase - and the dark side of the national psyche. All things considered though, a memorable evening...
Wednesday, December 28, 2011
Happy New Year to the 'Burgh
Fortunately, New Year's Eve was rarely if ever a major celebratory moment in the Rohrer household. As I aged gracefully, the challenge to stay awake until midnight to listen to a pointless countdown,watch the descent of a really large chandelier with the music of groups that I had never heard of in the background- Wilco, for example? - well, not my cup of strong java. So my curmudgeonly approach to the New Year's hoopla serves me well in Riyadh since there is no recognition of the Gregorian calendar new year as a holiday let alone a celebration of it... So bah humbug, indeed!
However, Christmas Eve and Day was another story indeed. Candidly, I had faced Christmas season with foreboding, anticipating a sense of loss, remoteness and self-pity expecting to soldier through it as an ascetic, joyless discipline. Although I did experience some of these emotions in fact, the peak of the Christmas cycle was saved for me by my experiencing a Christmas dinner hosted by an expat couple and their friends, complete with Christmas carols in the background, a traditional turkey dinner with sweet potato/marshmellow caserole, and a libation that reminded me of a very fruity wine. The comraderie was wonderful and I may have a photo to post eventually - yours truly bedecked in a traditional Afghan wedding hat. Enjoy the image!
However, the peak experience for me was a long skype with Janet, Gwyn and Caitlin celebrating (virtually) around the Christmas tree. I cannot convey how wonderful this was... even without a gift to unwrap!
Blessings to each of you for a rewarding and challenging New Year ahead!
However, Christmas Eve and Day was another story indeed. Candidly, I had faced Christmas season with foreboding, anticipating a sense of loss, remoteness and self-pity expecting to soldier through it as an ascetic, joyless discipline. Although I did experience some of these emotions in fact, the peak of the Christmas cycle was saved for me by my experiencing a Christmas dinner hosted by an expat couple and their friends, complete with Christmas carols in the background, a traditional turkey dinner with sweet potato/marshmellow caserole, and a libation that reminded me of a very fruity wine. The comraderie was wonderful and I may have a photo to post eventually - yours truly bedecked in a traditional Afghan wedding hat. Enjoy the image!
However, the peak experience for me was a long skype with Janet, Gwyn and Caitlin celebrating (virtually) around the Christmas tree. I cannot convey how wonderful this was... even without a gift to unwrap!
Blessings to each of you for a rewarding and challenging New Year ahead!
Friday, December 23, 2011
Christmas Card from Riyadh
The day before the day before Christmas is warm and sunny here and the propects for a White Christmas in Riyadh are nill. In fact the prediction for December 25 is about 75-deg F the warmest day since October. So in many ways it will be strange to be spending this special holy season in SA. I will be skyping Christmas Day with Janet, Caitlin and Gwyn and celebrating with them around the tree and stockings (yes, we still maintain the tradition) virtually. I expect that the Armed Forces Network will be playing Christmas carols and perhaps even showing a yule log or two. I will be attending a Christmas dinner for the Western expats who haven't left for the holidays which I'm told will include a turkey with the trimmings. I politely refused an invitation to attend a filmed version of the Nutcracker on Christmas Eve, primarily because you've seen it once... etc. Realizing that this sounds very Scrooge-like, my apologies but this old cultural chestnut never resonated with me. Now if it were Handel's Messiah, well that's another matter.
I have been preoccupied in a good way by priorities at work, including preparing an article for potential publication and leading a strategic planning effort - how's that for excitement! - and consequently have been neglecting my blog responsibilities. I intend to get back in the groove soon but want to wish all my blog buddies a restoring, most rewarding and blessed Christmas and Chanukah season.
God be with each of you!
Wes
I have been preoccupied in a good way by priorities at work, including preparing an article for potential publication and leading a strategic planning effort - how's that for excitement! - and consequently have been neglecting my blog responsibilities. I intend to get back in the groove soon but want to wish all my blog buddies a restoring, most rewarding and blessed Christmas and Chanukah season.
God be with each of you!
Wes
Friday, December 9, 2011
Unbirthday in Riyadh
I'm told that birthdays in Saudi culture are not celebrated, if even recognized at all. If true, this custom is more curious to me than most but in any case when in Rome (or Riyadh)... So I low-keyed my own with a stealth "celebration" in the guise of a dinner out with my new friend Ali. At his suggestion we went to a popular Arabic restaurant that offered an eclectic menu of traditional Arabic foods complemented by dishes you could order at Jimmy Tsang's (were it still open for business). We sat in high backed white cushioned chairs rather than on the floor in traditional mode - which Ali (a cool young Jordanian engineer) had concluded was too much of a cultural transition for me. He was also very concerned (unnecessarily as it turns out) about my reaction to the food.We ordered a salad plate (humus, eggplant, stuffed grape leaves and greens), Arabic grill (beef, veal and chicken shish-kabob) and fried rice and fresh pita bread - in copious amounts, all of which we shared. Best meal out in several years - including a pre-departure visit to Joe's Crab Shack (South Side) which was memorable!
Ali has also taken on the responsibility of educating me about Saudi cutural do's and taboos. I came close to violating one by offering to clink glasses of fruit drink on his side, cappucino, on mine but was informed that doing so publicly is haram. Any guesses why?
On another cultural front: Christmas lights and decorations are evident in the compound! In fact the manager of the mini-mart, a non-Muslim Indian, features a fully decorated but artificial tree at the entrance and the maintenance shed (Filipino staff) displays a string of green (but no red) lights and Santa in his sleigh... What a wonderful world!
Ali has also taken on the responsibility of educating me about Saudi cutural do's and taboos. I came close to violating one by offering to clink glasses of fruit drink on his side, cappucino, on mine but was informed that doing so publicly is haram. Any guesses why?
On another cultural front: Christmas lights and decorations are evident in the compound! In fact the manager of the mini-mart, a non-Muslim Indian, features a fully decorated but artificial tree at the entrance and the maintenance shed (Filipino staff) displays a string of green (but no red) lights and Santa in his sleigh... What a wonderful world!
Thursday, December 1, 2011
Any idea - choose one!
The 20th century abstract painter, Willem de Kooning, is quoted in reflecting on his art that "any idea is as good as another". Though I certainly have no credentials in art history or esthetics, my guess is that he meant that any concept, idea or mental picture is as likely to generate works of artistic merit, beauty, truth, self-awareness, social criticism, etc as any other. In any case, a similar assumption underlies my approach to blogging, at least in my early fumbling attempts. Rather than invest much energy in finding the right topic (and hitting the correct note), I have let the blog take the lead pursuing its own logic while I run to keep up several steps behind. If this sounds a bit whacko, this likely applies to many of us who decide to communicate primarily through the soundless bit-stream and/or who remove themselves to places where "black and gold" are just colors, not the banner leading into battle and on which we center our lives...
This leads me to cabbages (obviously)... I have attached a bit of poetic reflection ("a poem" suggests a polished and completed work, that doesn't apply here) that reflects my approach to poetry and the idea of one image being :just as good as"... To my wife's regret and my shame, I have yet to fulfill my promise to her to publish (before I perish, presumably) some of my pieces and this one of the few I've ever shared publicly, the first of my Saudi opus. So I consider this a pre-pub pilot, a "toe in the water" for future efforts.
Please accept the following for whatever it's worth as my holiday season gift to you, my dear friends.
This leads me to cabbages (obviously)... I have attached a bit of poetic reflection ("a poem" suggests a polished and completed work, that doesn't apply here) that reflects my approach to poetry and the idea of one image being :just as good as"... To my wife's regret and my shame, I have yet to fulfill my promise to her to publish (before I perish, presumably) some of my pieces and this one of the few I've ever shared publicly, the first of my Saudi opus. So I consider this a pre-pub pilot, a "toe in the water" for future efforts.
Please accept the following for whatever it's worth as my holiday season gift to you, my dear friends.
Cabbages and kingdoms
Row of cabbages or second cousins
serving as shoe-top hedge rows
sidewalk trim modestly foreign to
color display drawing attention
as unseemly and unArabic
rather as sentinel guard of stability…
Certainly not pinkish impatience
seeking out the Saudi sun but
patiently enduring it like
parched palms bordering & scanning
murderous highways:
Unexpected flora
reminders unsolicited of
gap and chasm unbridged between
being now Riyadh-embedded
as a not-young man with
familiar but receding past
demarcating
the kingdom of discontinuity,
of dampened not extinguished fires,
hope remnant in the backdrop
of disquieting dreams
Cabbage rows pointing toward an
eternal mystery, the query:
Why this world? Why any world at all?
The cabbages are silent and unmoved…
Wes Rohrer
December 1, 2011
Riyadh
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