Dutch treat

As you have likely concluded the opportunities for expat social and recreational activities outside the compound are rare and usually involve one of the embassies in the DQ (Diplomatic Quarter, not the soft ice cream though there is actually one of those in Riyadh). A good friend Edith who arranged the desert trip for us during Janet's visit is a Dutch national. She invited me and my Irish buddy Rob - a writer, film-maker and student of early Irish history and culture - as her guests to the Dutch Embassy Spring Fling (or words to that effect...). Not knowing what to expect I decided to go, enjoy the company of my friends (as Rob is a world-class conversationalist, creative and more than a little outrageous) and leave as early as decorum allowed.  

After passing through embassy security which was lax compared to the British and NZ Embassies, we entered an outdoor patio centered on a swimming pool area ringed by soft lights. To my mild surprise there was a bar with a narrow offering of beverages that one might enjoy at Walnut Grove, Peter's Pub or Church Brew Works. My friends opted for a malt beverage while I stayed loyal to white wine - not an especially good one but hey it was the real thing! Filipino guys in uniform circulated among the linen covered cafe tables lining the pool offering hors-d'oeuvres. I accepted a small strip of what looked like bacon - though that was unlikely to impossible - and found it to be chilled and salty, perhaps herring. To my distress I later learned that I had digested eel but survived the experience without adverse effects...

The guests were young middle-aged to older dressed in business casual. Except for the Dutch language I might have been at a Happy Hour reception at the Fox Chapel Field Club - well, actually I've never been to any event at the Field Club so this is just a wild guess!   Although Edith assured us that most educated Dutch people speak English we generally conversed among ourselves, trying to determine whether the Dutch Ambassador might appear and if so how we would be able to identify him or her...After two small glasses of fermented grape and great conversation, I was ready for a meal which was served buffet style - an interesting hybrid of Dutch-Arabic including little sausages and fish with veal and chicken kabobs. We had just finished our meal when a few couples headed for a section clearly designated as the dance floor. I had no intention of humiliating myself in this regard but Edith and Rob were insistent so I gave it my best Saturday Night Fever imitation. After three vigorous pop-rock sets, I had exhausted my repertoire of dance floor moves and retreated to my table, finished my glass and then called for my driver...

It was an enjoyable evening with good friends in lovely setting, an experience that was distinctive because of its normality. Adult men and women together conversing freely, behaving well and enjoying one other's company, good food and beverage and real music in a relaxed, low stress environment. That such an experience is so rare in this environment is notable...

A Perfect (Sand)Storm

Last Sunday began as usual in Riyadh with a warm, sunny morning but predictions for high winds later in the afternoon. By noon the sky had become overcast and off to the northeast, there appeared to be a distant blanket of mist or sheets of rain either of which would be rare if not extraordinary. By mid-afternoon one of our administrative secretaries told me she had just received a weather alert that a major sandstorm was heading for Riyadh from the north, i.e., Kuwait, and that employees were encouraged to leave early. Had this been a prediction oif a major snow storm heading from Cleveland to the 'Burgh, I would likely have continued business as usual, taking note of the traffic flows on 5th Avenue. But in this situation I really didn't know what to expect and the secretary had a note of genuine concern in her voice. Since I'm at the mercy of the shuttle bus to get to and from my compound, I decided to abandon ship for the next (4:15 pm) shuttle.

When I left our building for the 5 minute walk across a dusty construction site (the footprint for an on-campus overhead tram being built) the wind had become gusty and gritty and the sky menacing. By the time I reached the bus stop trash was flying about and women clutching their head scarves, lab coats and abayas. The Yamama III bus arrived on time and several of us boarded quickly relieved to be sheltered from the wind and dust. Just as the bus was about to leave the station, a curtain of total (but reddish) darkness fell as if some one had thrown the "lights off" switch. Although the driver had his high beams on it was not clear that he had more than a few feet of vision. As we slowly wound our way through the campus service roads to the main highway, many limos and personal vehicles pulled over to the side. Our driver forged ahead and merged into a light stream of traffic on the highway in what was essentially pitch dark conditions. Having become somewhat acclimated to the terrors of normal driving in Riyadh, I realized yet again that I had no contol over this situation and so peered out the window looking for signs of break in the storm or perhaps apocalyptic visions suggesting this we might indeed be approaching Judgment Day.

Well, by the time we reached the compound the light had been restored to early evening level, the sky was a chalky gray, a muddy rain hit the windshield and apparently the Endtimes had at least been postponed. So now I have passed yet another expat test: weathering the Saudi version of a blizzard. In fact, I have subsequently learned that the intensity and suddeness of this storm was a once in a decade occurence - and that most sandstorms hitting Riyadh are milder but dirtier and more long lasting. In this case my porch was covered with mounds and rivulets of muddy red and the floor mat strewn with seed pods. The good news is that this means job security for the Filipno guys who contract with the residents to clean the villa facades, porches and windows - a silver lining in every sandstorm cloud!