Well, not literally at the moment but it has been raining steadily since 4:00 am. With the high forecast to be in the mid-50s this is very un-Saudi and a bummer since I was totally unprepared for rain and chilly weather. So a mall excursion is my plan for the coming weekend. If I haven't already mentioned it, I have found the disjoint between the Saudi weekend (Thursday-Friday) and the Western way to be especially disorienting, almost more so than the 8-hour time difference...
The major news item the last week or two has been the Syrian situation and the Arab Council's sanctions against the Assad Regime. At least based on what I read in the Arab News, a Saudi owned daily paper, there is wide-spread antipathy to the brutality shown by Assad and the military against the protestors and innocents caught in the middle. Until I began to read more about MIddle East politics, I had not realized the special influence Syria has had in the pan-Arab movement historically in addition to its geopolitical importance as a linchpin (formerly) of Regional stability and its strategic location. All but two Arab Council nations - Iraq and Lebanon (essentially a puppet state of Syria) - signed off on the agreement. So this assertive action by the Council (of symbolic importance at least) is ground-breaking. As I understand it (small in area but wealthy) Qatar (ruled by the Al-Thani family) took the lead in this process, increasing its clout in the Region... For a political junkie like your correspondent, this is prime steak and has been fascinating to watch as the Arab Spring cycles into winter.
Incidentally, I am beginning to be concerned about the attribution of causal links to my presence in the Kingdom with other significant developments. During my 10 days in Riyadh in mid-January 2011, the Tunisian revolt sparked the Arab Spring while this November in Riyadh has experienced historically trend-breaking weather. I would prefer to blame both on global warming!
Monday, November 28, 2011
Wednesday, November 23, 2011
Thanksgiving in Riyadh
Dear friends,
As you might imagine, Thanksgiving is not recognized nor celebrated in Riyadh even within the expat community. Though to be expected. the dearth of Thanksgiving announcements (buy your 20-pound turkey while they're still available at Giant), no Black Friday sales, etc. has been one of the reminders that I'm not in Kansas (well, somewhat east of there...) any more, Toto. Though it was rumored that a faux Thanksgiving-day dinner was being offered at the dahntahn Marriot, the idea of passing turkey legs, stuffing and cranberry relish around a table of expat strangers didn't exactly warm my heart - though if someone knows how to FAX me a slice of pumpkin pie that would be much appreciated! It will of course be the holidays that will be most difficult in terms of separation from my dear family and friends but that's the cost of doing business in remote corners of the world.
Channeling my favorite weather guy and friend Jon Burnett, the weather here today on Thanksgiving is lovely, sunny and COOL and this follows two days of actually chilly weather (or seems so now that I became acclimated to the Saudi dry heat of October). One day was completely overcast, presented a few drops of rain, was windy and (to me) uncomfortably cool, probably in the high 50s/low 60s. Interestingly enough, all my Saudi colleagues were raving about the great weather and the outdoor patio garden where I usually take my lunch was crowded to over-flowing but I retreated indoors. I wonder if they would be as enthusiastic about a mid-January taste of Buffalo or Cleveland? My expat mentors tell me that caps, gloves and overcoats are required for at least several weeks in January/February. A though I still find this difficult to believe, I expect to be heading to the blue-light special at the Ramez for my mittens and scarf soon enough.
My primary purpose in posting today, however, was to wish all of you a rewarding, relaxing and renewing Thanksgiving holiday. Though it risks falling into cliche territory ,I must admit that my daily experience in the Kingdom - in spite of the generosity and warmth of my Saudi colleagues, comfortable accommodations and benefits that will accrue longer term - reminds me of how thankful we should be every day for the blessings, freedom and opportunity we enjoy.
As you might imagine, Thanksgiving is not recognized nor celebrated in Riyadh even within the expat community. Though to be expected. the dearth of Thanksgiving announcements (buy your 20-pound turkey while they're still available at Giant), no Black Friday sales, etc. has been one of the reminders that I'm not in Kansas (well, somewhat east of there...) any more, Toto. Though it was rumored that a faux Thanksgiving-day dinner was being offered at the dahntahn Marriot, the idea of passing turkey legs, stuffing and cranberry relish around a table of expat strangers didn't exactly warm my heart - though if someone knows how to FAX me a slice of pumpkin pie that would be much appreciated! It will of course be the holidays that will be most difficult in terms of separation from my dear family and friends but that's the cost of doing business in remote corners of the world.
Channeling my favorite weather guy and friend Jon Burnett, the weather here today on Thanksgiving is lovely, sunny and COOL and this follows two days of actually chilly weather (or seems so now that I became acclimated to the Saudi dry heat of October). One day was completely overcast, presented a few drops of rain, was windy and (to me) uncomfortably cool, probably in the high 50s/low 60s. Interestingly enough, all my Saudi colleagues were raving about the great weather and the outdoor patio garden where I usually take my lunch was crowded to over-flowing but I retreated indoors. I wonder if they would be as enthusiastic about a mid-January taste of Buffalo or Cleveland? My expat mentors tell me that caps, gloves and overcoats are required for at least several weeks in January/February. A though I still find this difficult to believe, I expect to be heading to the blue-light special at the Ramez for my mittens and scarf soon enough.
My primary purpose in posting today, however, was to wish all of you a rewarding, relaxing and renewing Thanksgiving holiday. Though it risks falling into cliche territory ,I must admit that my daily experience in the Kingdom - in spite of the generosity and warmth of my Saudi colleagues, comfortable accommodations and benefits that will accrue longer term - reminds me of how thankful we should be every day for the blessings, freedom and opportunity we enjoy.
Thursday, November 17, 2011
Stumpathon III
When shopping at the compound mini-mart, the clerk rings up 27.55 SR (= Saudi Riyal). If I give him (George) three 10 SR notes, how much change does he hand me?
FYI the current exchange rate is $1 US = 3.755 SR but this is not relevant to the answer - just thought you should know.
FYI the current exchange rate is $1 US = 3.755 SR but this is not relevant to the answer - just thought you should know.
Lost thread - Stumpathon II Results
Caitlin had the only response and the correct one... Ohioans made me happy since they soundly defeated a referendum (#2) pushed by the Governor that would have emasculated collective bargaining in the State. Although I have had my issues with specific union positions and tactics, nonetheless collective bargaining has been a foundation principle of labor relations embedded in statutory law since 1935. Given the increasing gap between the ultra-wealthy and the rest of us and the declining fortunes of the middle class, this is hardly the time to curb collective bargaining... In response to this crushing defeat, the Governor (whose name escapes me) admitted that he would need to revaluate his position since the people spoke. Perhaps he wants to avoid facing another form of people's choice, a recall election...
Wednesday, November 16, 2011
Security to the nth degree
I had occasion to meet with some new friends who happen to be all expat Anglicans to share a meal together at one of the larger expat compounds. I want to discuss the security issue since my experience last evening is arguably a microcosm of the Saudi expat experience in this regard. After securing a reliable NGHA driver (in effect my employer's taxi service), we left the hospital grounds for a 30-minute drive to the far outskirts of Riyadh. Given that we were just past rush hour and beyond central city Riyadh, the traffic was less than hair-raising. In fact it was a peaceful drive and in the dark could enjoy the horizon of lights off the highway, including a mile or two of what in the US might have appeared to be large and numerous Christmas Tree lots outlined in lights. This was the Camel Souk or market for this popular commodity - and fortunately was able to make out several of the animals on display... At various points the darkness along the highway was interrupted by the garish lights of a block or two of contiguous shops (imagine the Monroeville business district strip in miniature) proclaiming their wares in Arabic. I could identify coffee shops, a pharmacy, and a dry cleaner but the rest were a blur of Arabic script and harsh lighting.
Once we reached the compound, I realized the immmensity of it, easily 3 x the size of my home compound which has about 250 units. The security procedures were correspondingly impressive and daunting. As in my compound, all cars are stopped, the driver and passengers show their IDs and the hood and trunk are opened for a cursory check for explosive devices. In Yamama III this is done with regularity but with perhaps less than high enthusiasm, performed as a necessary routine. Well, the whole process was ratcheted up several notches at the mega-compound, I'll call Happy Acres. Once the auto inspection was completed both the driver, an amicable Pakistani who was one of the more cautious drivers to whom I entrusted my fate, and I were ushered into a Security Guard office where we emptied our pockets and each went through an airport security inspection device. My driver was also manually frisked but I was spared that indignity, presumably since I was so obviously Western and perhaps since I had worn my suit and best tie for the occasion... Having passed this scrutiny, we the drove the gauntlet of jersey barriers and blockades into the compound interior. To complete the image, the outer compound walls are topped with rolls of barbed wire that would have deterred Steve McQueen, if not Rambo or the former governor of California...
Once inside I went into the Guest Office, where I had my photo taken - glad that I wore that tie! - surrendered my Iqema card (the universally required residence ID for all Saudis and expats), and was given a compound pass. Then I realized that I had no clue as to the location of the meeting other than the generic "Admin Building". To my relief and surprise a shuttle bus was waiting for some other guests who were attending a live theatre performance in the Auditorium... Well the friendly confines of Yamama III were beginning to pale in comparison in terms of cultural opportunities and infrastructure thoughI actually prefer the smaller scale, intimacy and more relaxed climate at YIII.
Our hosts, a British couple who were expat lifers informed us that the population at Happy Acres included officers of the British military (RAF and Royal Navy, though the nearest shoreline is about a two-hour drive). This accounts for the higher level of security as well as certain amenities including a non-alcoholic bar (BYOB, apparently) and the occasional entertainment in the auditorium ... whereas I'm grateful to be able to get clear reception (black & white not color) on my villa TV of MLB, NFL and NHL games via the US Army station broadcasting to Europe, Africa and the Gulf Region...
The meeting included a typically diverse group of expats with folks from Germany, New Zealand, the UK and the US. Our presider was an ARAMCO employee who with his wife is also from the States. The fact that she was wearing a deep yellow jacket with a scarf with black accents led to the inevitable Stiller references though they were not genetically 'Burghers.
So in summary, my take home messages from this experience are (a) that it is crucial to have a dependable driver who speaks your language, (b) regardless of nationality the bonding among expats is usually quick and genuine even if not deep and (c) never leave home without your Iqema ID!
I never found out the title of the performance (though it certainly was not King Lear nor Rent!) but understand that the production was created and enacted by a troupe within the compound... so the arts are alive and well even in the remotest of outposts - the 4th take home message.
Once we reached the compound, I realized the immmensity of it, easily 3 x the size of my home compound which has about 250 units. The security procedures were correspondingly impressive and daunting. As in my compound, all cars are stopped, the driver and passengers show their IDs and the hood and trunk are opened for a cursory check for explosive devices. In Yamama III this is done with regularity but with perhaps less than high enthusiasm, performed as a necessary routine. Well, the whole process was ratcheted up several notches at the mega-compound, I'll call Happy Acres. Once the auto inspection was completed both the driver, an amicable Pakistani who was one of the more cautious drivers to whom I entrusted my fate, and I were ushered into a Security Guard office where we emptied our pockets and each went through an airport security inspection device. My driver was also manually frisked but I was spared that indignity, presumably since I was so obviously Western and perhaps since I had worn my suit and best tie for the occasion... Having passed this scrutiny, we the drove the gauntlet of jersey barriers and blockades into the compound interior. To complete the image, the outer compound walls are topped with rolls of barbed wire that would have deterred Steve McQueen, if not Rambo or the former governor of California...
Once inside I went into the Guest Office, where I had my photo taken - glad that I wore that tie! - surrendered my Iqema card (the universally required residence ID for all Saudis and expats), and was given a compound pass. Then I realized that I had no clue as to the location of the meeting other than the generic "Admin Building". To my relief and surprise a shuttle bus was waiting for some other guests who were attending a live theatre performance in the Auditorium... Well the friendly confines of Yamama III were beginning to pale in comparison in terms of cultural opportunities and infrastructure thoughI actually prefer the smaller scale, intimacy and more relaxed climate at YIII.
Our hosts, a British couple who were expat lifers informed us that the population at Happy Acres included officers of the British military (RAF and Royal Navy, though the nearest shoreline is about a two-hour drive). This accounts for the higher level of security as well as certain amenities including a non-alcoholic bar (BYOB, apparently) and the occasional entertainment in the auditorium ... whereas I'm grateful to be able to get clear reception (black & white not color) on my villa TV of MLB, NFL and NHL games via the US Army station broadcasting to Europe, Africa and the Gulf Region...
The meeting included a typically diverse group of expats with folks from Germany, New Zealand, the UK and the US. Our presider was an ARAMCO employee who with his wife is also from the States. The fact that she was wearing a deep yellow jacket with a scarf with black accents led to the inevitable Stiller references though they were not genetically 'Burghers.
So in summary, my take home messages from this experience are (a) that it is crucial to have a dependable driver who speaks your language, (b) regardless of nationality the bonding among expats is usually quick and genuine even if not deep and (c) never leave home without your Iqema ID!
I never found out the title of the performance (though it certainly was not King Lear nor Rent!) but understand that the production was created and enacted by a troupe within the compound... so the arts are alive and well even in the remotest of outposts - the 4th take home message.
Friday, November 11, 2011
In response to thousands of requests - My job description
Well, one actually... My wife Janet asked me to explain my job here. Although this seems like a perfectly reasonable and easily answered question, this turns out to be not so clear since I have no explicit job description and this will likely evolve over the next year. My formal title is Associate Dean for Administration and Policy with a corresponding faculty appointment in the Department of Health Informatics. My primary role (as it appears... Inshallah) is to provide leadership in moving the College of Public Health & HI forward to prepare eventually for accreditation by the US-based accrediting body for schools of public health. This will be a challenging and long-term enterprise, most likely in the five-ten year range, extending well beyond my tenure here. More immediately, I will be working closely with the Dean, Dr. Majid, who is also CIO of the Medical Center, to initiate a long term strategic plan to culminate in CEPH accreditation and will be responsible for developing and articulating College-level academic policies in support of the longer term goals. All this is to serve the vision of the College which essentially is to become the premier center for public health education and research in the Middle East with international recognition for excellence. This is an exciting but daunting aspiration for an institution that's still in its infancy.
So one unexpected sidebar benefit of this blogging process is that I just developed a job description... That may be the most productive outcome of the day!
So one unexpected sidebar benefit of this blogging process is that I just developed a job description... That may be the most productive outcome of the day!
Wednesday, November 9, 2011
The mighty have fallen fast
Having just read the Post-Gazette headlines, I am almost speechless - though as most of you know that would be a most unlikely scenario!
It was expected that Paterno was on his way out but I thought Spanier might survive having offered up Joe, his AD, VP for Business Affairs, etc. Clearly this is a tragic, outrageous case of human sin aggravated in its consequences by institutional gross negligence... What were they thinking!
It was expected that Paterno was on his way out but I thought Spanier might survive having offered up Joe, his AD, VP for Business Affairs, etc. Clearly this is a tragic, outrageous case of human sin aggravated in its consequences by institutional gross negligence... What were they thinking!
Climbing up a steep learning curve
The residential compound nearest the medical complex headquarters offers recreational services for all the NGHA compounds including a monthly schedule of short trips, including several day-long desert trips, first come/first served. Having intended to visit the US Embassy to check in and register my presence (though this doesn't appear to be required), I signed up for the Diplomatic Quarters trip scheduled yesterday morning from 8:30 - 12:00 noon. Incidentally, with some exceptions I have found that punctuality and observing schedules at least within the NGHA system is at least an aspiration if not always achieved.
In any case I took two shuttles, arrived at the departure point early and had time for a coffee before catching the bus. When I arrived at the appointed stop, my minority status became quite clear as I was the only male along with 20+ Filipino ladies, almost certainly all nurses. Fine with me having verified with the driver that the US embassy was on the itineray, the arrangement being that you are dropped off at the gate and call when you wished to be picked up. Mobile phones here are a survival tool not primarily a convenience and fashion accessory...
The Embassy Quarters is located just outside downtown Riyadh, adjacent to the King Saud International Conference Center and a Ritz Carlton that from the outside looks like the Palace of Versailles. As expected Embassy Row is gated and guarded conspicuously but no more so than our compound actually. So the driver winds his way through miles of intersecting service roads and I noted in passing the New Zealand, Nigerian, Brazilian, Pakistani, Egyptian and Yemeni embassies, all of which had only inconspicuous gate plates identifying the Embassy and a generic Arabic architecture.
As expected the first stop was the Filipino Embassy at which the majority of Filipino ladies departed the bus leaving me and 5 other ladies (to my surprise). Three of the latter got off at the Korean Embassy (!) Finally we reached what we were told was the US Embassy but no name plate and no building immediately in sight, just an aging guard (who couldn't have defended the premises against two preteens with paint guns). So my two Filipino fellow travellers asked the guard how to get to the Embassy. He patiently explained that it was behind the trees at the end of a service drive and we could walk there unescorted BUT it was closed for the holidays (!) After venting our collective frustrations I introduced myself to Ivy and Venice and inquired about their reasons for visting the US Embassy. Both have family in the States and were vistiting the Embassy to begin the arduous process of obtaining a US visa for travel in 2013 (!). Ivy's destination was Georgetown/northern VA and Venice was headed for Hawaii to visit her children (my guess would have been that she was in her mid-20s at most)... In the interim and having some sympathy for our plight, the guard suggested we go to the main gate to check the days/hours of the facility... which it turns out are very restricted, four days a week and 1:30 - 3:30 pm ONLY whereas the Diplomatic Quarters shuttle trips are all scheduled in the morning. Admittedy there are few US expats in the Kingdom overall but still ...!
Well, a young African-American guy at the Embassy entrance gave my companions some information about the visa process and unsolicited, pointedly recommended to them several times that their friend (me) accompany them on their next visit since that would "make it easier for them"... They tried to explain that we weren't family but then decided not to argue the point. In fact since I intended to return anyway - this time by an NGHA taxi - I offered to accompany them. The ladies explained to me that it is very difficult for Filipino women to obtain a guest visa to the US since there is an institutional suspicion that once in the US they will never leave and compete for jobs as illegals. However, the welcome mat is out for Filipino nurses applying for a work visa due to the chronic nursing shortage... So the three of us will attempt to access the castle again in several weeks.
What a learning experience this has been for one wide-eyed expat!
In any case I took two shuttles, arrived at the departure point early and had time for a coffee before catching the bus. When I arrived at the appointed stop, my minority status became quite clear as I was the only male along with 20+ Filipino ladies, almost certainly all nurses. Fine with me having verified with the driver that the US embassy was on the itineray, the arrangement being that you are dropped off at the gate and call when you wished to be picked up. Mobile phones here are a survival tool not primarily a convenience and fashion accessory...
The Embassy Quarters is located just outside downtown Riyadh, adjacent to the King Saud International Conference Center and a Ritz Carlton that from the outside looks like the Palace of Versailles. As expected Embassy Row is gated and guarded conspicuously but no more so than our compound actually. So the driver winds his way through miles of intersecting service roads and I noted in passing the New Zealand, Nigerian, Brazilian, Pakistani, Egyptian and Yemeni embassies, all of which had only inconspicuous gate plates identifying the Embassy and a generic Arabic architecture.
As expected the first stop was the Filipino Embassy at which the majority of Filipino ladies departed the bus leaving me and 5 other ladies (to my surprise). Three of the latter got off at the Korean Embassy (!) Finally we reached what we were told was the US Embassy but no name plate and no building immediately in sight, just an aging guard (who couldn't have defended the premises against two preteens with paint guns). So my two Filipino fellow travellers asked the guard how to get to the Embassy. He patiently explained that it was behind the trees at the end of a service drive and we could walk there unescorted BUT it was closed for the holidays (!) After venting our collective frustrations I introduced myself to Ivy and Venice and inquired about their reasons for visting the US Embassy. Both have family in the States and were vistiting the Embassy to begin the arduous process of obtaining a US visa for travel in 2013 (!). Ivy's destination was Georgetown/northern VA and Venice was headed for Hawaii to visit her children (my guess would have been that she was in her mid-20s at most)... In the interim and having some sympathy for our plight, the guard suggested we go to the main gate to check the days/hours of the facility... which it turns out are very restricted, four days a week and 1:30 - 3:30 pm ONLY whereas the Diplomatic Quarters shuttle trips are all scheduled in the morning. Admittedy there are few US expats in the Kingdom overall but still ...!
Well, a young African-American guy at the Embassy entrance gave my companions some information about the visa process and unsolicited, pointedly recommended to them several times that their friend (me) accompany them on their next visit since that would "make it easier for them"... They tried to explain that we weren't family but then decided not to argue the point. In fact since I intended to return anyway - this time by an NGHA taxi - I offered to accompany them. The ladies explained to me that it is very difficult for Filipino women to obtain a guest visa to the US since there is an institutional suspicion that once in the US they will never leave and compete for jobs as illegals. However, the welcome mat is out for Filipino nurses applying for a work visa due to the chronic nursing shortage... So the three of us will attempt to access the castle again in several weeks.
What a learning experience this has been for one wide-eyed expat!
Stumpathon Round II
As context to this question and to insure an even playing field, you all should know that two of our three lovely and talented daughters are alums from two of the finest small universities in Ohio. So as proud parents and boosters, Janet and I display our John Carroll and Ashland U car window decals ... well, proudly.
Today's question is: Why am I especially proud of Ohioans today?
Footnote: This has absolutely nothing to do with Saudi culture, politics, weather or traffic!
Today's question is: Why am I especially proud of Ohioans today?
Footnote: This has absolutely nothing to do with Saudi culture, politics, weather or traffic!
And the winners are ...
Catherine edged out Janet R. for 1st place and Janet A. followed soon after with a quite respectable showing (and arguably) had the most creative (i.e., whacko) response. So I was prepared to split the koucherie three ways but alas I reached the cafeteria too late and was faced with the remnants of a sorry looking chicken curry and a somewhat dubious humus-like side dish. So maybe I'll rethink the whole awards thing... Isn't being right just good enough?
Ah, yes, the answer: "Officials were geared up for the critical last day of stoning today at the Jamarat. Pilgrims performed the stoning of Satan ritual chanting "Labbaik" for the second day on Monday. Since morning, pilgrims started descending on the four-storied Jamarat complex from all sides and moved toward the three pillars symbolizing Satan..." Apparently, organizers of the Haj had ordered additional walkways and platforms constructed to alleviate dangerous over-crowding experienced in the past.
This was so much fun for me (hey, it's been a slow week!) that I'm preparing Round II of the Stumpathon... so stay tuned!
Ah, yes, the answer: "Officials were geared up for the critical last day of stoning today at the Jamarat. Pilgrims performed the stoning of Satan ritual chanting "Labbaik" for the second day on Monday. Since morning, pilgrims started descending on the four-storied Jamarat complex from all sides and moved toward the three pillars symbolizing Satan..." Apparently, organizers of the Haj had ordered additional walkways and platforms constructed to alleviate dangerous over-crowding experienced in the past.
This was so much fun for me (hey, it's been a slow week!) that I'm preparing Round II of the Stumpathon... so stay tuned!
Tuesday, November 8, 2011
Stump the Chump
This may be the first but also could be the last of a "stump the chump" blog feature (plagiarizing from the Car Guys of NPR fame). So let's give it a go...
Explain if you dare, the following headline from today's English language Arab News:
"Stoning made easy, say Hajis".
The first correct (or wildly funny response) will get a fresh plate of koucherie from the KAMC hospital cafeteria. It's quite tasty actually but the average delivery time for packages between the Kingdom and the 'Burgh is four-five weeks so.. maybe you ought to store some left-overs as Plan B.
Explain if you dare, the following headline from today's English language Arab News:
"Stoning made easy, say Hajis".
The first correct (or wildly funny response) will get a fresh plate of koucherie from the KAMC hospital cafeteria. It's quite tasty actually but the average delivery time for packages between the Kingdom and the 'Burgh is four-five weeks so.. maybe you ought to store some left-overs as Plan B.
Shock and awe-ful!
My source for US sports is primarily the US Army network which carries the NFL, NHL and MLB games live or delayed. This evening it's been nonstop coverage about the child abuse allegations against former Coach Sandusky, charges that appear to be well-documented, the cover-up reaching the upper levels of the University and the fate of JoPa. I admit to having been a life-long "anti-fan" of the Nittany Lions, primarily due to my long-suffering and largely futile loyalty to Pitt football though their greatest fan was almost without challenge my mother Margaret who sobbed blue and gold...
In any case it is so strange to see this sad and sordid tale played out in excruciating detail half the globe away... In spite of my deep-seated loyalties for the Panthers, one cannot fail to acknowledge that this will be an awful ending to one of the greatest coaching careers in football. Yes, we don't want judgment to outpace proven facts; yet it looks bad for all directly involved... so I offer my sympathies to PennState nation and especially our good friends and next door neighbors who are world class PSU fans and boosters.
Some further evidence that the world is a bit off-kilter: it rained last evening, a light drizzle admittedly but decidedly wet and tomorrow's projected high is a chilly 73 F. So why didn't I pack my LL Bean parka?
In any case it is so strange to see this sad and sordid tale played out in excruciating detail half the globe away... In spite of my deep-seated loyalties for the Panthers, one cannot fail to acknowledge that this will be an awful ending to one of the greatest coaching careers in football. Yes, we don't want judgment to outpace proven facts; yet it looks bad for all directly involved... so I offer my sympathies to PennState nation and especially our good friends and next door neighbors who are world class PSU fans and boosters.
Some further evidence that the world is a bit off-kilter: it rained last evening, a light drizzle admittedly but decidedly wet and tomorrow's projected high is a chilly 73 F. So why didn't I pack my LL Bean parka?
Thursday, November 3, 2011
Venture into the Great Unknown
Well after some weighing of pros and cons, I went with my instinct and walked out of the compound for the first time. I was told by an expat friend that the Ramez Center was a 20 minute walk and was considered a safe passage (re traffic not bad guys!). Ramez has been described as having KMart ambiance as an all-purpose discounter. The walk was in some ways liberating since I have become so dependent on scheduled bus loops. Although I really enjoy the compound and its amenities, at times I feel as if I'm living in a parallel universe sealed off from the real world like being a figure in an Arabian snow globe - without, of course, the snow!
In any case the walk was uneventful except for the several times I had to cross a major highway. This is a life-threatening experience throughout Riyadh and I'm not exagerating much. The principle that the pedestrian has the right of way is either unknown or disdainfully dismissed in Riyadh. In either case I stayed to the far shoulder of the road after leaving the compound on the service road paralleling the main drag. I walked at a brisk pace on sand/dust while taking advantage of the mid-morning breeze before the heat descended walking beside several blocks of land awaiting the inevtiable construction of some revenue-generating enterprise. All too soon I had to make the first crossing of the highway (imagine the Parkway East at rush hour between the Bates Street entrance and the Squirrel Hill tunnel). Actually, due to the relatively light mid-morning traffic on the Saudi weekend, it was tricky but not spine-tingling. So I made it in one piece with a bit of a swagger in my step...
Comparisons of Ramez to KMart are libelous to the latter unless we are talking about KMart in the early 80s. Ramez did seem to have a wide array of primarily Chinese made products ranging from carpets to soap detergent, backpacks to stationary, manicure sets to men's winter jackets (!) - and mercifully no small of rancid popcorn... I was looking for beard grooming products (isn't this just too compelling!) and struck out there. I also searched for one of the string bags that you can use as a carry-all for lunches, etc. but the only ones available were in pink featuring Princess Jasmine and her banby camel or neon green with the Riyadhi Kid on his skateboard - so I passed on those. Left with some pens, a notebook, a pair of scissors (all imports from Beijing),etc. and a great deal on Tide.
The bad new: this was the high point of my day off - the good news: I won't ever again subject you to my shopping list... Just another exciting slice of expat life in the Magic Kingdom!
For another bit of local flavor, what follows are the story line headers from yesterday's Arab News:
"No compromise with Iran, says (newly appointed) Crown Prince Naif"
(Saudi) Education model needs review
Four caught running bogus Haj (travel) firms
Over 177,000 pilgrims arrive from non-Arab Africa
Syria, Arab league argee on road map to end unrest
WVU files lawsuit against Big East
[Yes that's West-by-God Virginia being referenced (go figure!) along with the NHL hockey scores and CC Sabathia's contract which mercifully crowded out the cricket play-by-plays. Our Stiller's unexpected domination of the Pats also got some attention earlier in the week.]
In any case the walk was uneventful except for the several times I had to cross a major highway. This is a life-threatening experience throughout Riyadh and I'm not exagerating much. The principle that the pedestrian has the right of way is either unknown or disdainfully dismissed in Riyadh. In either case I stayed to the far shoulder of the road after leaving the compound on the service road paralleling the main drag. I walked at a brisk pace on sand/dust while taking advantage of the mid-morning breeze before the heat descended walking beside several blocks of land awaiting the inevtiable construction of some revenue-generating enterprise. All too soon I had to make the first crossing of the highway (imagine the Parkway East at rush hour between the Bates Street entrance and the Squirrel Hill tunnel). Actually, due to the relatively light mid-morning traffic on the Saudi weekend, it was tricky but not spine-tingling. So I made it in one piece with a bit of a swagger in my step...
Comparisons of Ramez to KMart are libelous to the latter unless we are talking about KMart in the early 80s. Ramez did seem to have a wide array of primarily Chinese made products ranging from carpets to soap detergent, backpacks to stationary, manicure sets to men's winter jackets (!) - and mercifully no small of rancid popcorn... I was looking for beard grooming products (isn't this just too compelling!) and struck out there. I also searched for one of the string bags that you can use as a carry-all for lunches, etc. but the only ones available were in pink featuring Princess Jasmine and her banby camel or neon green with the Riyadhi Kid on his skateboard - so I passed on those. Left with some pens, a notebook, a pair of scissors (all imports from Beijing),etc. and a great deal on Tide.
The bad new: this was the high point of my day off - the good news: I won't ever again subject you to my shopping list... Just another exciting slice of expat life in the Magic Kingdom!
For another bit of local flavor, what follows are the story line headers from yesterday's Arab News:
"No compromise with Iran, says (newly appointed) Crown Prince Naif"
(Saudi) Education model needs review
Four caught running bogus Haj (travel) firms
Over 177,000 pilgrims arrive from non-Arab Africa
Syria, Arab league argee on road map to end unrest
WVU files lawsuit against Big East
[Yes that's West-by-God Virginia being referenced (go figure!) along with the NHL hockey scores and CC Sabathia's contract which mercifully crowded out the cricket play-by-plays. Our Stiller's unexpected domination of the Pats also got some attention earlier in the week.]
Wednesday, November 2, 2011
Observations on the eve of the Eid Al-Adha Holiday
I want to avoid this becoming weather central but the eartly winter assault on the US east coast even made the Arab News. I understand that the 'Burgh was spared the worst but Janet reports that the norm has been late November-like weather in October. It's quite a different story here of course but on my walk home from my gym work-out last night, there was a strong breeze that actually felt chilly - and that was a first.
I am preparing for what for me will likely be a rather long week during the Eid holiday which extends officially from Saturday, 11/5 to Friday,11/11 though some of my colleagues began early. The high point is the Eid-Al-Adha, the feast of sacrifice. This holiday provides the opportunity for the faithful to make the Hajj, the trip to Makkah (Mecca), which (in theory) is an obligation for the faithful Muslim, at least once in his/her lifetime though exceptions are made for practical reasons, e.g., prohibitive cost, family obligations. Apparently, between 1.5 to 2 million Muslims from across the globe make the journey annually. According to one of my colleagues who made the Haj with his wife and mother several years ago, you sign up with group travel agency who makes all the arrangements including food and travel. The greatrest challenge other than the crowds of people in procession (a snapshot of Disney World queues and long waits for the attractions comes to mind) are the distances to be covered in performing the rituals associated with the Haj observance. The proscribed rituals include walking seven times around the Ka-ba, the huge black stone within the Grand Mosque, seven runs (or walks) between twin hills, symbolizing Hagar's search for water in the wilderness, traveling to Mt. Arafat (which I understand does not entail any climbing) and stoning the three pillars at Mina which represents the Devil and distribution of sacrificed animals to the poor at the end of the pilgrimage (source: No God But God, Reza Aslan, 2005 - a really interesting cultural history of Islam). By all accounts the Haj is a profoundly moving experience for those with the means to participate. Some are housed in tents and there is literally a moveable feast...
Well, back in Riyadh for the expat infidals, limited options... My College remains accessible and the Hospital never closes along with its cafeteria and excellent coffee shops featuring great cheese croisants and chocolate covered donuts (ah, my heart sings!). Although I had planned to take advantage of some scheduled shopping trips from thre compound to various malls and markets, those have been cancelled for the next four-five days. So office, coffee shop, gym and villa for me, perhaps not so exciting but I'll endure...
I am preparing for what for me will likely be a rather long week during the Eid holiday which extends officially from Saturday, 11/5 to Friday,11/11 though some of my colleagues began early. The high point is the Eid-Al-Adha, the feast of sacrifice. This holiday provides the opportunity for the faithful to make the Hajj, the trip to Makkah (Mecca), which (in theory) is an obligation for the faithful Muslim, at least once in his/her lifetime though exceptions are made for practical reasons, e.g., prohibitive cost, family obligations. Apparently, between 1.5 to 2 million Muslims from across the globe make the journey annually. According to one of my colleagues who made the Haj with his wife and mother several years ago, you sign up with group travel agency who makes all the arrangements including food and travel. The greatrest challenge other than the crowds of people in procession (a snapshot of Disney World queues and long waits for the attractions comes to mind) are the distances to be covered in performing the rituals associated with the Haj observance. The proscribed rituals include walking seven times around the Ka-ba, the huge black stone within the Grand Mosque, seven runs (or walks) between twin hills, symbolizing Hagar's search for water in the wilderness, traveling to Mt. Arafat (which I understand does not entail any climbing) and stoning the three pillars at Mina which represents the Devil and distribution of sacrificed animals to the poor at the end of the pilgrimage (source: No God But God, Reza Aslan, 2005 - a really interesting cultural history of Islam). By all accounts the Haj is a profoundly moving experience for those with the means to participate. Some are housed in tents and there is literally a moveable feast...
Well, back in Riyadh for the expat infidals, limited options... My College remains accessible and the Hospital never closes along with its cafeteria and excellent coffee shops featuring great cheese croisants and chocolate covered donuts (ah, my heart sings!). Although I had planned to take advantage of some scheduled shopping trips from thre compound to various malls and markets, those have been cancelled for the next four-five days. So office, coffee shop, gym and villa for me, perhaps not so exciting but I'll endure...
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