Souk's On

I experienced my first taste of traditional Riyadh in an evening trip to the Al-Thumairi souk (market) in the Al-Dira district. This commercial and cultural center has the smells, sounds and tastes of Riyadh as the average Saudi experiences it outside the gleaming and polished artifice of the Mall culture. Traffic in the weekend evening is even more daunting than during rush hour but once our driver dropped us off at the souk I felt like I had been transported into a different, parallel reality. My hosts, an expat couple who had a decade of experience in Riyadh, were on a mission to look at carpets and jewelry. Dr. M knew several of the shop owners by name and it became apparent he was a valued, long-time customer known for his negotiating skills. The souks were arranged in narrow rows of storefronts loosely clustered by product, carpets in one area, gold and silver in another with open stalls of candy, nuts, and cheap toys for the children, even a coin-operated set of rides for the little ones.

Fortunately, I had rationed the spending money I carried with me for the temptation to indulge in more authentic Saudi and Middle Eastern culture was hard to resist. I left with a very interesting jewelry item that was pleasing on two counts: it was authentic (Afghan, not Saudi) and I actually bargained down the asking price. Dr. M was not impressed with my skills in this regard but admitted that as a novice not much more could be expected. To put this in perspective, we spent about an hour in one carpet shop while he closely examined a dozen Persian carpets spread out before us and then negotiated with a combination of amiability and assertiveness that was impressive while the owner Mohammed served us cups of sweet tea and carried on the bargaining from his side, firmly - pointing out the age and fine craftsmanship of the piece, etc. - but with great courtesy. My host and his companion - the carpet was actually for her - left with the carpet, about 1000 SR below the asking price. Though carpets don't excite me, even those that are of high quality, I appreciate the fact that I was witnessing a master class in haggling!

Before leaving the souk, we took a peak into the Masmak fortress, a museum and tribute to the al-Saud family that unfortunately was closed for the day. This somewhat sinister looking structure is located adjacent to a huge open square where mothers were walking with their toddlers, kids kicking soccer balls, young girls (some fully veiled but others not) raptly engaged on their mobile phones, and other signs of normal urban life. Except this is the very plaza in which public executions of a medieval character are conducted several times a year, as recently as last week in which a woman was executed having been found guilty of sorcery. The means of capital punishment? Well, the venue is popularly (and distressingly) known as "chop-chop"square...

So a mix of the comforting and civilized aspects of Saudi culture - sweet tea while bargaining amiably for a purchase - and the dark side of the national psyche. All things considered though, a memorable evening...