Well, not literally at the moment but it has been raining steadily since 4:00 am. With the high forecast to be in the mid-50s this is very un-Saudi and a bummer since I was totally unprepared for rain and chilly weather. So a mall excursion is my plan for the coming weekend. If I haven't already mentioned it, I have found the disjoint between the Saudi weekend (Thursday-Friday) and the Western way to be especially disorienting, almost more so than the 8-hour time difference...
The major news item the last week or two has been the Syrian situation and the Arab Council's sanctions against the Assad Regime. At least based on what I read in the Arab News, a Saudi owned daily paper, there is wide-spread antipathy to the brutality shown by Assad and the military against the protestors and innocents caught in the middle. Until I began to read more about MIddle East politics, I had not realized the special influence Syria has had in the pan-Arab movement historically in addition to its geopolitical importance as a linchpin (formerly) of Regional stability and its strategic location. All but two Arab Council nations - Iraq and Lebanon (essentially a puppet state of Syria) - signed off on the agreement. So this assertive action by the Council (of symbolic importance at least) is ground-breaking. As I understand it (small in area but wealthy) Qatar (ruled by the Al-Thani family) took the lead in this process, increasing its clout in the Region... For a political junkie like your correspondent, this is prime steak and has been fascinating to watch as the Arab Spring cycles into winter.
Incidentally, I am beginning to be concerned about the attribution of causal links to my presence in the Kingdom with other significant developments. During my 10 days in Riyadh in mid-January 2011, the Tunisian revolt sparked the Arab Spring while this November in Riyadh has experienced historically trend-breaking weather. I would prefer to blame both on global warming!
Monday, November 28, 2011
Wednesday, November 23, 2011
Thanksgiving in Riyadh
Dear friends,
As you might imagine, Thanksgiving is not recognized nor celebrated in Riyadh even within the expat community. Though to be expected. the dearth of Thanksgiving announcements (buy your 20-pound turkey while they're still available at Giant), no Black Friday sales, etc. has been one of the reminders that I'm not in Kansas (well, somewhat east of there...) any more, Toto. Though it was rumored that a faux Thanksgiving-day dinner was being offered at the dahntahn Marriot, the idea of passing turkey legs, stuffing and cranberry relish around a table of expat strangers didn't exactly warm my heart - though if someone knows how to FAX me a slice of pumpkin pie that would be much appreciated! It will of course be the holidays that will be most difficult in terms of separation from my dear family and friends but that's the cost of doing business in remote corners of the world.
Channeling my favorite weather guy and friend Jon Burnett, the weather here today on Thanksgiving is lovely, sunny and COOL and this follows two days of actually chilly weather (or seems so now that I became acclimated to the Saudi dry heat of October). One day was completely overcast, presented a few drops of rain, was windy and (to me) uncomfortably cool, probably in the high 50s/low 60s. Interestingly enough, all my Saudi colleagues were raving about the great weather and the outdoor patio garden where I usually take my lunch was crowded to over-flowing but I retreated indoors. I wonder if they would be as enthusiastic about a mid-January taste of Buffalo or Cleveland? My expat mentors tell me that caps, gloves and overcoats are required for at least several weeks in January/February. A though I still find this difficult to believe, I expect to be heading to the blue-light special at the Ramez for my mittens and scarf soon enough.
My primary purpose in posting today, however, was to wish all of you a rewarding, relaxing and renewing Thanksgiving holiday. Though it risks falling into cliche territory ,I must admit that my daily experience in the Kingdom - in spite of the generosity and warmth of my Saudi colleagues, comfortable accommodations and benefits that will accrue longer term - reminds me of how thankful we should be every day for the blessings, freedom and opportunity we enjoy.
As you might imagine, Thanksgiving is not recognized nor celebrated in Riyadh even within the expat community. Though to be expected. the dearth of Thanksgiving announcements (buy your 20-pound turkey while they're still available at Giant), no Black Friday sales, etc. has been one of the reminders that I'm not in Kansas (well, somewhat east of there...) any more, Toto. Though it was rumored that a faux Thanksgiving-day dinner was being offered at the dahntahn Marriot, the idea of passing turkey legs, stuffing and cranberry relish around a table of expat strangers didn't exactly warm my heart - though if someone knows how to FAX me a slice of pumpkin pie that would be much appreciated! It will of course be the holidays that will be most difficult in terms of separation from my dear family and friends but that's the cost of doing business in remote corners of the world.
Channeling my favorite weather guy and friend Jon Burnett, the weather here today on Thanksgiving is lovely, sunny and COOL and this follows two days of actually chilly weather (or seems so now that I became acclimated to the Saudi dry heat of October). One day was completely overcast, presented a few drops of rain, was windy and (to me) uncomfortably cool, probably in the high 50s/low 60s. Interestingly enough, all my Saudi colleagues were raving about the great weather and the outdoor patio garden where I usually take my lunch was crowded to over-flowing but I retreated indoors. I wonder if they would be as enthusiastic about a mid-January taste of Buffalo or Cleveland? My expat mentors tell me that caps, gloves and overcoats are required for at least several weeks in January/February. A though I still find this difficult to believe, I expect to be heading to the blue-light special at the Ramez for my mittens and scarf soon enough.
My primary purpose in posting today, however, was to wish all of you a rewarding, relaxing and renewing Thanksgiving holiday. Though it risks falling into cliche territory ,I must admit that my daily experience in the Kingdom - in spite of the generosity and warmth of my Saudi colleagues, comfortable accommodations and benefits that will accrue longer term - reminds me of how thankful we should be every day for the blessings, freedom and opportunity we enjoy.
Thursday, November 17, 2011
Stumpathon III
When shopping at the compound mini-mart, the clerk rings up 27.55 SR (= Saudi Riyal). If I give him (George) three 10 SR notes, how much change does he hand me?
FYI the current exchange rate is $1 US = 3.755 SR but this is not relevant to the answer - just thought you should know.
FYI the current exchange rate is $1 US = 3.755 SR but this is not relevant to the answer - just thought you should know.
Lost thread - Stumpathon II Results
Caitlin had the only response and the correct one... Ohioans made me happy since they soundly defeated a referendum (#2) pushed by the Governor that would have emasculated collective bargaining in the State. Although I have had my issues with specific union positions and tactics, nonetheless collective bargaining has been a foundation principle of labor relations embedded in statutory law since 1935. Given the increasing gap between the ultra-wealthy and the rest of us and the declining fortunes of the middle class, this is hardly the time to curb collective bargaining... In response to this crushing defeat, the Governor (whose name escapes me) admitted that he would need to revaluate his position since the people spoke. Perhaps he wants to avoid facing another form of people's choice, a recall election...
Wednesday, November 16, 2011
Security to the nth degree
I had occasion to meet with some new friends who happen to be all expat Anglicans to share a meal together at one of the larger expat compounds. I want to discuss the security issue since my experience last evening is arguably a microcosm of the Saudi expat experience in this regard. After securing a reliable NGHA driver (in effect my employer's taxi service), we left the hospital grounds for a 30-minute drive to the far outskirts of Riyadh. Given that we were just past rush hour and beyond central city Riyadh, the traffic was less than hair-raising. In fact it was a peaceful drive and in the dark could enjoy the horizon of lights off the highway, including a mile or two of what in the US might have appeared to be large and numerous Christmas Tree lots outlined in lights. This was the Camel Souk or market for this popular commodity - and fortunately was able to make out several of the animals on display... At various points the darkness along the highway was interrupted by the garish lights of a block or two of contiguous shops (imagine the Monroeville business district strip in miniature) proclaiming their wares in Arabic. I could identify coffee shops, a pharmacy, and a dry cleaner but the rest were a blur of Arabic script and harsh lighting.
Once we reached the compound, I realized the immmensity of it, easily 3 x the size of my home compound which has about 250 units. The security procedures were correspondingly impressive and daunting. As in my compound, all cars are stopped, the driver and passengers show their IDs and the hood and trunk are opened for a cursory check for explosive devices. In Yamama III this is done with regularity but with perhaps less than high enthusiasm, performed as a necessary routine. Well, the whole process was ratcheted up several notches at the mega-compound, I'll call Happy Acres. Once the auto inspection was completed both the driver, an amicable Pakistani who was one of the more cautious drivers to whom I entrusted my fate, and I were ushered into a Security Guard office where we emptied our pockets and each went through an airport security inspection device. My driver was also manually frisked but I was spared that indignity, presumably since I was so obviously Western and perhaps since I had worn my suit and best tie for the occasion... Having passed this scrutiny, we the drove the gauntlet of jersey barriers and blockades into the compound interior. To complete the image, the outer compound walls are topped with rolls of barbed wire that would have deterred Steve McQueen, if not Rambo or the former governor of California...
Once inside I went into the Guest Office, where I had my photo taken - glad that I wore that tie! - surrendered my Iqema card (the universally required residence ID for all Saudis and expats), and was given a compound pass. Then I realized that I had no clue as to the location of the meeting other than the generic "Admin Building". To my relief and surprise a shuttle bus was waiting for some other guests who were attending a live theatre performance in the Auditorium... Well the friendly confines of Yamama III were beginning to pale in comparison in terms of cultural opportunities and infrastructure thoughI actually prefer the smaller scale, intimacy and more relaxed climate at YIII.
Our hosts, a British couple who were expat lifers informed us that the population at Happy Acres included officers of the British military (RAF and Royal Navy, though the nearest shoreline is about a two-hour drive). This accounts for the higher level of security as well as certain amenities including a non-alcoholic bar (BYOB, apparently) and the occasional entertainment in the auditorium ... whereas I'm grateful to be able to get clear reception (black & white not color) on my villa TV of MLB, NFL and NHL games via the US Army station broadcasting to Europe, Africa and the Gulf Region...
The meeting included a typically diverse group of expats with folks from Germany, New Zealand, the UK and the US. Our presider was an ARAMCO employee who with his wife is also from the States. The fact that she was wearing a deep yellow jacket with a scarf with black accents led to the inevitable Stiller references though they were not genetically 'Burghers.
So in summary, my take home messages from this experience are (a) that it is crucial to have a dependable driver who speaks your language, (b) regardless of nationality the bonding among expats is usually quick and genuine even if not deep and (c) never leave home without your Iqema ID!
I never found out the title of the performance (though it certainly was not King Lear nor Rent!) but understand that the production was created and enacted by a troupe within the compound... so the arts are alive and well even in the remotest of outposts - the 4th take home message.
Once we reached the compound, I realized the immmensity of it, easily 3 x the size of my home compound which has about 250 units. The security procedures were correspondingly impressive and daunting. As in my compound, all cars are stopped, the driver and passengers show their IDs and the hood and trunk are opened for a cursory check for explosive devices. In Yamama III this is done with regularity but with perhaps less than high enthusiasm, performed as a necessary routine. Well, the whole process was ratcheted up several notches at the mega-compound, I'll call Happy Acres. Once the auto inspection was completed both the driver, an amicable Pakistani who was one of the more cautious drivers to whom I entrusted my fate, and I were ushered into a Security Guard office where we emptied our pockets and each went through an airport security inspection device. My driver was also manually frisked but I was spared that indignity, presumably since I was so obviously Western and perhaps since I had worn my suit and best tie for the occasion... Having passed this scrutiny, we the drove the gauntlet of jersey barriers and blockades into the compound interior. To complete the image, the outer compound walls are topped with rolls of barbed wire that would have deterred Steve McQueen, if not Rambo or the former governor of California...
Once inside I went into the Guest Office, where I had my photo taken - glad that I wore that tie! - surrendered my Iqema card (the universally required residence ID for all Saudis and expats), and was given a compound pass. Then I realized that I had no clue as to the location of the meeting other than the generic "Admin Building". To my relief and surprise a shuttle bus was waiting for some other guests who were attending a live theatre performance in the Auditorium... Well the friendly confines of Yamama III were beginning to pale in comparison in terms of cultural opportunities and infrastructure thoughI actually prefer the smaller scale, intimacy and more relaxed climate at YIII.
Our hosts, a British couple who were expat lifers informed us that the population at Happy Acres included officers of the British military (RAF and Royal Navy, though the nearest shoreline is about a two-hour drive). This accounts for the higher level of security as well as certain amenities including a non-alcoholic bar (BYOB, apparently) and the occasional entertainment in the auditorium ... whereas I'm grateful to be able to get clear reception (black & white not color) on my villa TV of MLB, NFL and NHL games via the US Army station broadcasting to Europe, Africa and the Gulf Region...
The meeting included a typically diverse group of expats with folks from Germany, New Zealand, the UK and the US. Our presider was an ARAMCO employee who with his wife is also from the States. The fact that she was wearing a deep yellow jacket with a scarf with black accents led to the inevitable Stiller references though they were not genetically 'Burghers.
So in summary, my take home messages from this experience are (a) that it is crucial to have a dependable driver who speaks your language, (b) regardless of nationality the bonding among expats is usually quick and genuine even if not deep and (c) never leave home without your Iqema ID!
I never found out the title of the performance (though it certainly was not King Lear nor Rent!) but understand that the production was created and enacted by a troupe within the compound... so the arts are alive and well even in the remotest of outposts - the 4th take home message.
Friday, November 11, 2011
In response to thousands of requests - My job description
Well, one actually... My wife Janet asked me to explain my job here. Although this seems like a perfectly reasonable and easily answered question, this turns out to be not so clear since I have no explicit job description and this will likely evolve over the next year. My formal title is Associate Dean for Administration and Policy with a corresponding faculty appointment in the Department of Health Informatics. My primary role (as it appears... Inshallah) is to provide leadership in moving the College of Public Health & HI forward to prepare eventually for accreditation by the US-based accrediting body for schools of public health. This will be a challenging and long-term enterprise, most likely in the five-ten year range, extending well beyond my tenure here. More immediately, I will be working closely with the Dean, Dr. Majid, who is also CIO of the Medical Center, to initiate a long term strategic plan to culminate in CEPH accreditation and will be responsible for developing and articulating College-level academic policies in support of the longer term goals. All this is to serve the vision of the College which essentially is to become the premier center for public health education and research in the Middle East with international recognition for excellence. This is an exciting but daunting aspiration for an institution that's still in its infancy.
So one unexpected sidebar benefit of this blogging process is that I just developed a job description... That may be the most productive outcome of the day!
So one unexpected sidebar benefit of this blogging process is that I just developed a job description... That may be the most productive outcome of the day!
Wednesday, November 9, 2011
The mighty have fallen fast
Having just read the Post-Gazette headlines, I am almost speechless - though as most of you know that would be a most unlikely scenario!
It was expected that Paterno was on his way out but I thought Spanier might survive having offered up Joe, his AD, VP for Business Affairs, etc. Clearly this is a tragic, outrageous case of human sin aggravated in its consequences by institutional gross negligence... What were they thinking!
It was expected that Paterno was on his way out but I thought Spanier might survive having offered up Joe, his AD, VP for Business Affairs, etc. Clearly this is a tragic, outrageous case of human sin aggravated in its consequences by institutional gross negligence... What were they thinking!
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